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Food Reviews

North Scottsdale Dining at Local Bistro

Author: Gwen Ashley Walters
Issue: July, 2011, Page 160
Photos by Richard Maack

Drunk bread
With a mishmash menu of Italian, French and Spanish plates, this cozy new hangout is quickly turning into Scottsdale’s newest neighborhood gem.

The name threw me for a loop. Local Bistro could mean anything, from a farm-to-table concept (it’s not) to a French café serving rustic cuisine bourgeoise with good wine (it’s not that, either). Instead, Local Bistro is dishing up some pedigreed French dishes with Italian classics and a stray Spanish plate or two, plus a fantastic wine selection with 27 served by the glass.

And what a cool place to hang: The vibe is urban comfort – modern but not stark. I love the juxtaposition of sliced citrus for your water, presented on a silver tray, followed by delivery of warm ciabatta in a paper sack.
 
Inside Local Bistro
Don’t even think about skipping the drunk bread ($12, dinner only). A searing hot cast-iron skillet holds the most glorious slab of wine-soaked ciabatta, smothered in bubbling, browned Gruyère, with a good dose of butter and herbs. Enough said.

I’ll never tire of caprese ($12) when it’s this good. Local Bistro delivers a stunning stack of juicy tomatoes, house-made mozzarella and torn basil, drizzled with grassy olive oil and aged balsamic.
 
You can’t go wrong ordering pasta, whether it’s the not-really-spicy bucatini all’amatriciana ($14) with pancetta, tomatoes, scallions and a hint of garlic (our server swore the chef serves this to his own mother) or the house-made pappardelle bolognese ($16) with fat ribbons bathed in meat sauce. I had my eye on the next table’s spaghetti alla carbonara, with an oozing egg yolk, but it’s only available upon request.




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