From mouth-watering Mexican food to delicate seafood, we’re whetting your appetite with 23 of the Valley’s best new places to eat. |
Photo by Richard Maack
Barrio Cantina & Grill
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Barrio Cantina & Grill4731 E. Cactus Road, Phoenix
602-606-9150
barriocantina.comOpened: March 2009
Cuisine: Mexican
Price: $-$$
Atmosphere: This is not your father’s Mexican restaurant. Despite the humble name, which roughly translates to “neighborhood tavern,” this is one gigantic, over-the-top production that combines dramatic, contemporary architecture with Mexican pop art, seemingly the world’s biggest ceiling fan and a dramatic “tequila tree” situated over one of the two bars.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Owners/executive chefs Todd Rosenbaum and Tom Zummo, general manager Kyu Utsunomiya, bar manager Christopher Miller
Why we love it: Barrio Cantina defies expectations. No doubt someone has married a nightclub and a Mexican restaurant before, but here it actually feels organic. It’s a great place to grab a satisfying lunch or dinner, and on weekends it turns into a late-night hotspot with live music, thus neatly serving two neighborhood demographics.
Must-try menu items: The food, like the rest of the culture here, combines traditional and innovative. If you’re sticking with classic Mexican selections, go with the ceviche ($12); stacked enchiladas baked in an iron skillet ($10-$13); anything with the juicy machaca, which is made from short ribs; and roasted chicken-stuffed poblano peppers ($14). On the wild side there are the super spicy Barrio wings (8 for $9, 16 for $15), the chicken/pineapple cheese crisp ($12), bacon-wrapped hot dog sliders ($9) and the Sloppy Jose torta (like a south-of-the-border sloppy Joe, $11).
Drink to die for: Margaritas rule, and the house signature is the “X-rated” margarita, made with Cazadores Blanco Tequila, Patrón Citronage and pink-and-fruity X-rated Liqueur (yes, that’s its name). It is deceptively quaffable but packs a real punch ($10).
Secret of the house: Check out the sexy outdoor living room off the lounge. It’s covered and furnished with cushy seating, a misting system and heaters; there are accommodations for every kind of weather. It’s also available for private parties.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday; 11 a.m. to closing Thursday through Saturday
Happy hour/specials: 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily. Selected wines are $4 per glass; house margaritas and well drinks are half off. Munchies are bargain priced.
Takes reservations: Yes
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Photo by David Moore
Macceroncello with Niçoise olive tapenade, blistered McClendon campari tomatoes, Maya’s Farm basil, Superstition Farms ricotta and braised artichokes from Caffe Boa Bistro in Mesa.
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Caffe Boa Bistro2837 N. Power Road, Ste. 102, Mesa
480-981-2000
boabistro.comOpened: December 2010
Cuisine: Contemporary Italian
Price: $$$
Atmosphere: The compact, rectangular space oozes modernity. Clean lines and stone and glass accents are mellowed by knotty wood tables, soothing earth tones and paint colors of melon and butter. The community table – a requisite these days – encourages group get-togethers and friendly encounters with fellow diners. An open kitchen and wood-fired oven right as you walk in sets the tone that food is the star here.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Owners Jay and Christine Wisniewski, executive chef Payton Curry, general manager Shantal Curry
Why we love it: It brings big-city food and ambience to east Mesa with a devotion to local, seasonal ingredients that ranges far beyond lip service. Curry estimates three-fourths of ingredients in the winter and half in the summer are from Arizona. And we love that Curry is obsessed with house-made everything, from pasta (his gnocchi is so legendary even Chris Bianco raves about it) to charcuterie, which is cut on a hand-cranked 1880 Berkel slicer. He’ll even customize a tasting menu if you reserve the eight-seat private dining room.
Must-try menu items: The menu changes constantly, but mainstays include organic field greens salad ($9); salumi and artisan cheeses ($7 for one, $12 for two, $16 for three, $20 for four), Washington mussels in curried coconut milk ($13); daily pulled mozzarella ($12); sweet pea ravioli ($16); gnocchi ($14-$16); Sonoma lamb loin ($28); and day boat fish (market price).
Drink to die for: The exotic wine list features selections from Croatia, Slovenia and Hungary that you won’t find elsewhere in town, thanks to the Wisniewskis’ connections in Eastern Europe.
Secret of the house: Caffe Boa has a half-acre moveable garden plot in Tempe where they grow herbs, baby carrots, radishes, greens and more. Curry hopes it will become a valuable learning tool in the community to help kids and their parents make better food choices. Every staff member, from the owners and chefs to the servers, must put in hours during growing season.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday and Friday; 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. (brunch) and 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; wine bar stays open later
Happy hour/specials: 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily; half-price glasses of wine ($13 or less), $2 domestic beers, $3 imports/microbrews, $3 off New World cocktails, $3 well drinks, half-price bar bites
Takes reservations: Yes
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Photo by David Moore
Tuna crudo |
Crudo7045 E. Third Ave., Scottsdale
480-603-1011,
crudoaz.comOpened: October 2009
Cuisine: American breakfast and lunch; Contemporary Italian dinner
Price: $-$$$
Atmosphere: Tucked in the back of a boutique salon, Crudo offers creative egg dishes, sandwiches and salads via counter service during breakfast and lunch but transforms into a magical sit-down restaurant at night. The olive tree-shaded patio features tables topped with crisp, white tablecloths and candles. An Italian-inspired fresco mural framing one end of the patio coupled with piped-in old-school jazz vocals complete the charmingly romantic setting.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Chef/owner Cullen Campbell, chef/operating partner Brandon Crouser, and desserts by pastry chef Tracy Dempsey
Why we love it: Campbell and Crouser are masters at coaxing maximum flavor from a minimal number of ingredients, meaning every dish on the small, Italian-inspired menu thrills with well thought out taste combinations. Specific ingredients may come and go, depending upon the seasonality and the creative whims of the chefs, but you can be assured that the next rendition is just as tantalizing as the last. We love the money-saving course offerings, too (three, four or five courses for only $10 per course).
Must-try menu items: Crudo means raw in Italian, so choosing at least one course off the crudo menu is a must, like the house specialty, butterfish, topped with crispy lardo (a type of cured pork) and oven-dried tomatoes ($12) or the fresh vegetable plate ($12) showcasing the best in-season produce from local Maya’s Farm. From the cooked dishes, try the house-made gnocchi – soft potato dumplings swimming in a broth flavored with prosciutto ($12) – or the rich fegato grasso (foie gras) atop polenta sweetened with local dates ($14). Don’t skip Tracy Dempsey’s decadent desserts and ice creams, often flavored with seasonal fruits and herbs ($10).
Drink to die for: The small, mostly Italian wine list pairs beautifully with the menu, but start off with a cocktail, perhaps the striking Chef’s Blood ($9), a blend of Prosecco and Port.
Secret of the house: Crudo has a secret connection to Tsukiji, the famed Tokyo fish market – their source of whole fishes for their weekly specials. They’ve been known to use the catch from head to tail, including curing the liver of a madai snapper and then shaving it on top of their crudo as a salty garnish.
Hours: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday; 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Happy hour/specials: No; there are occasional wine dinners.
Takes reservations: Yes, by phone
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Photo by Richard Maack
Turkey pastrami sandwich with fries, house-made pickle and beer from Prescott Brewing Company |
Culinary Dropout7135 E. Camelback Road, Scottsdale
480-970-1700,
foxrc.com/culinary_dropoutOpened: January 2010
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Price: $$
Atmosphere: Two words: eye candy. And we’re not just talking about the hipster Scottsdale crowd, although Culinary Dropout is a prime spot for people watching. The décor is what’s really fetching, from sparkling green glass chandeliers to the shockingly purple-stamped back wall to plush leather banquettes and lots of gorgeous wood accents. Cushy lounge chairs and banquettes on the patio encourage lingering, and weekend nights liven up with jam sessions from musical acts on the small stage indoors.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Partner Sam Fox, executive chef/partner Clint Woods, general manager Frank Giacomini, beverage director Regan Jasper
Why we love it: The fun factor. Culinary Dropout is a trifecta of crafty libations, cool vibes and playful, tasty food (pretzel balls, anyone?). Add well-trained servers who actually enjoy serving you and a kitchen that expresses personality, and what’s not to like? Why yes, we’ll take a side of fun with that havarti bacon pub burger ($12) any day.
Must-try menu items: It’s possible to eat light and healthy, but there are far more gluttonous distractions, such as the not-traditional-but-tastes-great-so-who-cares pork belly Cubano ($10). It’s a mouthful of shaved ham, crisped pork belly, house-made pickles, tangy slaw and melted Swiss on a chewy, griddled bun. Equally tempting is the honey drizzled fried chicken with buttermilk biscuits ($16) or the chicken hash topped with a golden sunny-side up egg garnished with shaved black truffles ($12). The skillet of hot, gooey apple monkey bread ($8) is no slouch either. Just mention you want it when your entrée arrives, as it’s baked to order. If you can’t wait, you won’t be disappointed with the chilled salted caramel custard ($7), topped with crunchy caramel corn.
Drink to die for: Expect top-notch specialty drinks, such as the sweet, tangy Sauerkraut ($8), a straight-up cock-tini made with gin, Elderflower liqueur, lemon juice, orange marmalade and a touch of Dijon mustard. There’s also an extensive selection of craft beers (including a rotating “paper bag special” for $1.95).
Secret of the house: The heavy emphasis on the drinking side of the equation doesn’t mean the food takes a back seat. Pastas, breads, soups and sauces are made from scratch. The pork belly for the Cubano takes three days to prepare. Preparing the artichokes for the artichoke, asparagus and endive salad takes several hours. All that extra time and attention adds up to gastronomically superior pub grub.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Happy hour/specials: Monday through Friday 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., featuring handmade wine coolers, well drinks and a $1.95 “paper bag” beer special. Nibble on bar munchies, such as fried shrimp, chicken fingers and sliders. Bar stays open until 1:30 a.m. or until empty, whichever comes first.
Takes reservations: No, but they do try to accommodate large parties.
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Photo by Richard Maack
Heirloom tomato and watermelon salad with yuzu and basil sorbet |
Best ReinventionElements5700 E. McDonald Drive (Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Resort & Spa), Paradise Valley
480-948-2100
sanctuaryaz.comOpened: March 2001
Reinvented: December 2009
Cuisine: Contemporary American/Asian
Price: $$$$
Atmosphere: A multimillion-dollar renovation last year invigorated a hillside dining room known for its breathtaking views of Camelback and Mummy mountains and the twinkling lights of Paradise Valley. While elegant in sleek lines and dark colors, the new space – including a gorgeous new patio area called The Praying Monk and a stunning new private dining room titled “XII” for the number of guests it seats (12) – isn’t stuffy in the least. It’s attached to the lavish new 4,500-square-foot exposition/interactive kitchen and tucked behind an 800-bottle wall of wines. Guests can get up close to the jaw-dropping, custom one-piece Jade range and the pastry room that could rival a retail bakery.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Executive chef Beau MacMillan, pastry chef Renee Cade, sommelier Micah Olson
Why we love it: MacMillan was a winning contestant on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America and co-host of Worst Cooks in America, but with his recent “letting loose” in the kitchen, his food is even more engaging than his personality. Exquisitely crafted, Asian-accented, farm-to-table fare gives the Valley’s fine dining world-class flair by layering explosive flavors in unexpected ways.
Must-try menu items: Dishes change frequently to incorporate the best local, organic produce, sustainable seafood and hormone-free meats. Look for new vegetarian and gluten-free options, plus innovations like in-house smoked meats and a raw bar for iced shellfish and sashimi. We adore the shishito peppers dressed in salty-sweet soy caramel and crispy garlic ($9), and the pan-fried short rib ravioli brightened with sugar-cured shallots, tomato jam and zingy horseradish hollandaise ($13). You’ll lick the spoon for Chef Cade’s playful caramelized corn puffs and corn gelato with artistic honey-black pepper accents in shoyu sake reduction ($10).
Drink to die for: The well-curated wine list offers compelling choices directed by a sommelier station-slash-tasting bar. Try intriguing bottles like a 1996 Salon Blanc de Blancs from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger ($640), Pride Mountain Viognier from Sonoma ($100), or Federalist Visionary Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley ($45).
Secret of the house: Chef MacMillan offers fun, off-the-menu surprises, such as breakfast amuses of cornbread with whipped pinenut butter, freshly baked cookies to finish lunch and specialty noshes after 10 p.m., such as an Angus burger topped with cheddar and balsamic roasted onions served with potato chips ($14).
Hours: Breakfast, 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday; brunch, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday; lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday; dinner, 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; late night, 10 p.m. to close nightly
Happy hour/specials: Jade and Edge bars offer their own specials. All small plates, wine and culinary cocktails are $6 nightly; Jade Bar from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. and Edge from 10 p.m. to midnight.
Takes reservations: Yes, by phone or online
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Photo by Richard Maack
Trout with sunchokes, onions and dill sauce |
FnB7133 E. Stetson Drive, Scottsdale
480-425-9463
fnbrestaurant.comOpened: November 2009
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Price: $$-$$$
Atmosphere: Intimate and charming, dining at FnB is akin to eating at a treasured friend’s home, especially when perched at the U-shaped bar overlooking the open kitchen. Cream-colored brick walls, butcher paper-topped bistro tables and an eye-catching floor of multi-colored tiles give this tiny, contemporary space a sense of city style. When all 40 seats are full – and they usually are – FnB’s physical energy is just as exciting as the rustic American cooking it’s known for.
Outdoor seating: No
Key players: Co-owner/operator Pavle Milic, co-owner/operator Emily Milic, chef/operator Charleen Badman
Why we love it: One visit and Chef Badman wins your heart and stomach with simple but elegant small plates laden with farm-fresh vegetables and a handful of well-executed entrées. On your second visit, host Pavle Milic knows your name. By the third, he knows what drink you order. The combination of stylish yet back-to-basics cooking and genuine, warm hospitality is what many restaurants attempt but few pull off as well as FnB.
Must-try menu items: The menu changes frequently as Badman takes possession of whatever is coming from local farmers, always turning it into more than the sum of its parts. Maya’s Farm purple long beans, for example, are blanched, chilled and then tossed in fragrant ginger sesame dressing and topped with whisper-thin rings of crispy fried shallots. Crispy rock shrimp with jalapeño tartar ($9) has been on the menu from the beginning, with good reason – the cornmeal crunch is addictive. Heirloom tomatoes and house-pulled mozzarella elevate a baked strozzapreti ($19) to sublime. Humble chicken never tasted so flavorful in the hands of Badman, no matter what preparation: roasted or grilled. The deeply flavored butterscotch pudding ($7) with a heavy dose of grated nutmeg provides a dreamy finish.
Drink to die for: You’ve no doubt heard about the all-Arizona wine list, but FnB pours a couple of mean cocktails, too, including the Sundowner ($7), a thirst-quenching mix of Aperol and Gruet bubbles with a lemon twist.
Secret of the house: It’s hard to keep secrets with an open kitchen smack dab in the middle of the room. Linger long enough at the bar, though, and you’ll see Chef Badman shovel giant chunks of mesquite charcoal into the wood-burning grill. Badman goes through at least one 40-pound bag a night, flavoring everything from grilled bread to corn to lamb tenderloin with the aromatic smoke.
Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday; 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; closed Monday
Happy hour/specials: Not in the traditional sense, but FnB does offer late-night specials on Friday and Saturday from 10 p.m. until midnight, featuring $10 specials like chilaquiles and $2 beers.
Takes reservations: Yes, by phone
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Photo by David Moore
Griddled cheese sandwich and smoked tomato soup |
Frank & Albert’s2400 E. Missouri Ave. (The Arizona Biltmore Resort), Phoenix
602-954-2518
frankandalberts.com Opened: September 2009
Cuisine: American
Price: $$-$$$
Atmosphere: The architecture and décor of Frank & Albert’s retains the dramatic, organic style of the original resort building designed by Albert Chase McArthur and Frank Lloyd Wright, with liberal use of the famed concrete columns and “Biltmore Block,” yet nudges it neatly into the 21st century with subtle lighting, rich colors and sleek furnishings. It’s both striking and comfortable.
Outdoor seating: Yes, and it is one of the most attractive patios in the city, beautifully landscaped, spacious and full of nifty architectural details like a water feature, fireplace and fire pit.
Key players: Executive chef Todd Sicolo, chef de cuisine Conor Favre, general manager Muamer “Mo” Habul
Why we love it: As the newest addition to the revered Arizona Biltmore resort, Frank & Albert’s is quintessential “Old Arizona.” This isn’t just one more chain restaurant with hazy corporate antecedents; it’s an eatery with roots. We have only one little quibble on behalf of McArthur, who did the lion’s share of the work on this iconic resort. Though Wright’s contribution to the Biltmore was little more than the design of the bricks, he still gets top billing in the restaurant’s name.
Must-try menu items: The kitchen strives to source as many ingredients as possible from within a 100-mile radius of the resort. Favorite regional recipes are featured, and so are clever creations that tap into local culinary traditions. For instance, the rich, golden-hued tortilla soup (small $6, large $9) has been served at the Biltmore since 1949, and the celery Caesar salad (small $7, large $10) relies on locally grown produce. Chubby, grilled fish tacos ($14) and Pacific sea bass ($22) poached until crispy and tender in Queen Creek olive oil rule the seafood listing, and anything with pulled pork is spicy and satisfying. Schnepf Farm peach cobbler ($8) and tableside s’mores ($10) for dessert will have you smiling all the way home.
Drink to die for: Already a local legend, the lavender and lemons martini ($11) is to the ladies of the Valley what Cosmos were to the Sex in the City bunch.
Secret of the house: There are actually two of them: By calling chef Sicolo directly at 602-955-6600, arrangements can be made for dinner on the roof (actually, it’s on the iconic balcony fronting the resort) or dinner in the kitchen with the chef. Build a birthday or anniversary bash around either of those two ideas for a truly memorable occasion.
Hours: Breakfast, 6 a.m. to 11 a.m. daily; lunch, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; dinner, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Happy hour/specials: The High Five from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily. As the name suggests, well drinks and specialty cocktails, select beers including local brews, wines and appetizers are all $5.
Takes reservations: Yes
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Photo by David Moore
A taco selection of carne asada (beef), fish, cochinita (pork) and verduras de temporado (vegetables) |
Gallo Blanco401 W. Clarendon Ave., Phoenix
602-327-0880
galloblancocafe.comOpened: April 2009
Cuisine: Mexican
Price: $
Atmosphere: Housed in the modernized Clarendon Hotel, Gallo Blanco isn’t your typical hotel restaurant – or your typical Mexican restaurant for that matter. From the lobby, enter a dark bar that opens up to a colorful dining room awash with bright orange, red and green walls. Colorful striped banquettes and reclaimed wooden tables, a concrete floor and exposed ceiling give Gallo Blanco a hip, urban feel. A newly opened patio framed by raised planters adds an additional 24 seats, the perfect spot to sip sangria or fresh fruit agua frescas.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Chef/co-owner Doug Robson, co-owner Denise Robson, general manager Susan Burgos, executive chef Joe Meyers
Why we love it: Gallo Blanco redefines Mexican food with fresh, vibrant flavors without a single enchilada or burrito on the menu. Instead, boldly seasoned street tacos on fresh corn tortillas, tart and tangy ceviche and one of the best carne asada beef tortas in the Valley keep locals coming back in droves. Serving breakfast all day, like outrageously delicious huevos rancheros, doesn’t hurt either. Gallo Blanco sources most of its ingredients from local farms and producers, and the results shine through on every palate-pleasing plate.
Must-try menu items: Start with the fresh ensalada corada ($7), a crunchy mix of fresh chopped kale, cabbage, corn nuts and yulu seeds, among other things, tossed in a creamy ranch dressing, or try the grilled corn ($5) rolled in tangy cotija and smoked paprika. Don’t miss the citrus- and soy-marinated carne asada with charred tomato salsa ($2.50 for a street taco or $8 for a torta). The slow-braised cochinita (made with The Meat Shop’s local pork) is equally divine and also comes as a taco ($2) or a torta ($7). Finish with a creamy chocolate pudding with marshmallow cream and graham cracker shards ($5).
Drink to die for: The hint of jalapeño in the picoso ($8), a tequila reposado drink, is mouth-tingling, but our favorite sipper is the non-alcoholic, fragrant horchata ($3), a milky rice drink barely sweetened with piloncillo and spiced with cinnamon.
Secret of the house: Robson flavors many of his dishes with ingredients outside of the typical Mexican pantry, like soy sauce or quince paste, or a braising mixture of beer, orange juice and cola for his cochinita. He even uses floral jasmine rice for the horchata. It all works in his globally inspired fresh-Mex cuisine.
Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Happy hour/specials: 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Thursday, with specials on cocktails, tacos, guacamole and the addictive chicharron de queso, a formed “bowl” of griddled cheese.
Takes reservations: Yes, for parties of 10 or more only, by phone
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Photo by David Moore
The Grind
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The Grind3961 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix
602-954-7463
thegrindaz.comOpened: March 2010
Cuisine: American
Price: $-$$
Atmosphere: Long and narrow, The Grind sports a sleek, steel bar on one side and high-back, curvy booths on the other, creating a sense of intimacy. Warm, neutral tones of brown, gray and cream are punctuated with flattering lipstick-red drop lights. Oversized black-and-white photos of local personalities loom above the booths, and a row of flat-screen TVs hangs above the bar. A groovy soundtrack at just the right noise level keeps the energy level high yet doesn’t drown out conversation.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Owners George Monzures and Allen Thompson, executive chef Matt McLinn
Why we love it: Calling The Grind a burger joint isn’t entirely accurate, although the three burgers on the menu are worth a trip: All are cast iron skillet-seared in a mesquite charcoal oven that tops out at 1,000 degrees. The menu has five other sandwiches emerging from that oven, too, which gets a workout, charring everything from a grilled romaine salad to daily fish and steak blackboard specials. The Grind is more than just a swanky home for a custom-made oven. It’s also a chic, cozy neighborhood bar serving solid old-school cocktails, a few draft beers and a handful of upscale wines.
Must-try menu items: We’re partial to the BLT burger ($10), with house-cured bacon and caramelized onions, dolled up with crisp iceberg and local tomatoes and slathered with a house-made steak sauce somewhere between A1 and Worcestershire. Add a decadent skillet of scalloped potatoes ($5) with melted cheddar and Swiss, or skin-on fries ($4) dusted with fines herbes (both generous enough to share), and you’ve got a happy meal. Don’t miss the meaty chicken wings ($9), mesquite charred with a sweet-hot glaze. Salad lovers will flip over the smoky grilled romaine salad ($12). For dessert, indulge in miniature fried donut rings with warm butterscotch dipping sauce ($6).
Drink to die for: Most cocktails are old school, like the Manhattan, the Negroni and the Ramos Gin Fizz, but the new school Blueberry Hill ($10) gives a thrill. This sweet, slightly tart cocktail of Absolut Berri Açaí, blueberry purée, fresh lime and a splash of soda is as refreshing as it is potent.
Secret of the house: The Grind gives the neighborhood a cool place to sip cocktails and chow on charred burgers, sandwiches and steaks, but it also gives back to the neighborhood. Profits from the sale of logo items are donated to the Boys & Girls Club of Metropolitan Phoenix.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday (kitchen closes at 9:30 p.m. during the week and 10:30 p.m. on the weekends)
Happy hour/specials: 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday, 10 p.m. until close Thursday through Saturday. Look for daily specials, too, like half-price glasses of wine on Tuesdays and half-price select cocktails on Wednesdays.
Takes reservations: No
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Photo by Richard Maack
Mia’s homemade pancakes |
Hillside Spot 4740 E. Warner Road, Phoenix
480-705-7768,
hillsidespot.comOpened: December 2009
Cuisine: American
Price: $-$$
Atmosphere: Bright and modern with floor-to-ceiling windows, Hillside Spot is not technically on a hillside, but rather it adds charm and a sense of style to an Ahwatukee Foothills strip mall. It also takes the concept of “open kitchen” to new levels. Behind the counter, chefs are center stage, where you can watch them do everything from toss salads to grind meat (which they do daily for their brilliant burgers). Breakfast and lunch are casual but fast while dinner is low-key with table service and dim lighting.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Owner Doug Robson, executive chef Patrick Fegan, general manager Adam Reeder
Why we love it: It quickly became a neighborhood gathering place, serving family breakfasts, business lunches and date-night dinners with equal aplomb. When the weather permits, the roll-up doors provide that indoor/outdoor space that Arizonans crave. And we respect the dedication to local purveyors such as The Meat Shop, Maya’s Farm, Schreiner’s Fine Sausage, La Sonorense Bakery and MJ Bread, which allows conscientious diners to stay in “the Tuke” for a feel-good meal.
Must-try menu items: There’s plenty to choose from, namely Mia’s homemade pancakes ($6), El Jefe omelet ($8), Tunisian grilled vegetable salad ($8), pulled pork and coleslaw sandwich ($7), grilled corn on the cob ($4), cheeseburger and fries ($8.50), baked chicken cacciatore ($14), rib eye ($19), and apple pie ($5).
Drink to die for: The iced toddy ($2 small/$2.50 medium/$3 large), made with cold-brewed Cartel coffee steeped in a hemp bag for a long time to produce a beverage so high in caffeine it makes Red Bull seem like herbal tea. (For alcohol, they serve beer and wine only.)
Secret of the house: That intoxicating, smoky smell when you walk up to the door is from the lovingly prepared pulled pork. Pork shoulder from The Meat Shop is brined for 12 hours, put in a dry rub, roasted on the rotisserie for an hour over mesquite and pecan wood, and then braised in the oven for three hours.
Hours: Breakfast, 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily; lunch, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; dinner, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Happy hour/specials: Monday through Thursday 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., with discounts on beer, wine and grazing plates
Takes reservations: Parties of six or more at dinner only
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Photo by Richard Maack
Heirloom tomatoes with red onion and idiazabal cheese |
Iruña7217 E. First St., Scottsdale
480-398-3020,
irunaaz.comOpened: May 2010
Cuisine: Spanish
Price: $$-$$$
Atmosphere: The owners designed the space to recall Spain’s many restaurants converted from warehouses with a synthesis of industrial (open tresses, exposed ductwork) and handcrafted (an ornate wood bar, funky artwork). Its earthy-chic vibe and wide-open dining room reveal no relics from its former life as Pischke’s Paradise.
Outdoor seating: Yes, and it’s climate-controlled. It can be reserved for private parties.
Key players: Chef/owner Aaron May, business partner Quinn Goldsberry, executive chef Brian Barry, general manager Mark Dow
Why we love it: It’s a great place for everything, from a romantic date to a group dinner, and the menu should please everyone from vegetarians to seafood lovers to strict carnivores. Don’t let the small plates fool you; they’re rich, and it’s easy to fill up.
Must-try menu items: ensalada de arroz con atún (salad of tuna and rice, $9), salpicón de cangrejo (crab salad, $11), gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp, $10), chicken meatballs with truffle jus ($9), pollo colonial (chicken in a sweet-spicy sauce, $9), lomo con Romesco (pork loin, $12), filet mignon with salbitxada ($16), lobster with corn and Serrano ham ($18)
Drink to die for: Red or white sangria ($7 a glass; $3 at happy hour)
Secret of the house: They serve Fermin ham, a quintessential Spanish specialty, imported by chef José Andrés of ThinkFoodGroup in Washington, D.C. It’s the most expensive ingredient they buy – even costlier than filet mignon or lobster.
Hours: 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 4:30 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday
Happy hour/specials: 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily; reverse happy hour 10 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Select wines for $5 per glass; select tapas for $4-$5; Smirnoff cocktails for $3; select specialty martinis for $6; select specialty cocktails for $5
Takes reservations: Yes
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Photo by David Moore
Traditional flammenküchen |
Le Chalet 5626 W. Bell Road, Ste. 101, Glendale
602-337-8760
lechalet-llc.comOpened: February 2010
Cuisine: French/Swiss
Price: $-$$$
Atmosphere: You won’t completely forget you’re in a Glendale strip mall, but this place does accurately recall a rollicking basement fondue place in Paris. Dark wood, rock-accented walls, wine barrel tables, glass-door wine cellar and framed posters of French icons such as the Moulin Rouge and Citroëns tell you that you’re in for a serious gooey cheese eating experience and killer crêpes. A closed-caption video screen in the bar lets diners keep an eye on their crêpes being made in the kitchen. The ice-cave stage meant to conjure the Alps in the bar/lounge is odd, but we see where they’re coming from.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Co-owners Anthony Ferre and Alain Keller (Ferre is French and Keller is Swiss)
Why we love it: Bread and cheese, and more bread and cheese. And not that wimpy stuff, either – real Raclette and high-quality Swiss make us swoon. But if you’re watching your weight, you can happily indulge here in a low-calorie buckwheat crêpe: The calorie count is even right on the menu. Who are we kidding, though? You won’t want to pass up the chocolate fondue or naughty Nutella. And if you like to imbibe, ask to sit in the lounge, where bartender Robbie Gilbert channels Tom Cruise in Cocktail.
Must-try menu items: Swiss cheese fondue ($17.50), Swiss Raclette ($15.50), Matterhorn salad ($11.50), traditional flammenküchen ($9.50), Roquefort crêpe ($8.95), La Potence ($25), ultimate chocolate crêpe ($8.25), Nutella crêpe ($3.90); chocolate fondue for two ($16)
Drink to die for: The Swiss Kiss ($10) is a sultry strawberry and chocolate martini made with vodka, cream, strawberry liqueur and Godiva liqueur.
Secret of the house: The guillotine over the toilet in the men’s restroom is a gentle reminder for men to mind their aim. A friend of the owners built it to fit.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Happy hour/specials: Daily from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., $2 off all drinks, beer, wine and select appetizers; every third Monday, wine tasting from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., four to six tastes of wine and food pairings for $15; Tuesdays, 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., martini tasting with meats, cheeses and desserts for $20, and ladies’ night all night, with half-price drinks starting at 6 p.m.
Takes reservations: Yes
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Photo by Richard Maack
Marcella's Italian Kitchen
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Marcella’s Italian Kitchen7014 E. Camelback Road (Scottsdale Fashion Square), Scottsdale
480-947-2105
marcellasitaliankitchen.comOpened: October 2009
Cuisine: Italian
Price: $$
Atmosphere: Although it’s a new space and a big one, Marcella’s has been divided up and designed to look like a cozy, intimate little mom ’n’ pop restaurant that’s been around forever. Warm wood paneling, black and white tile, antique mirrors, lace curtains and soft lighting combine for an inviting, comfortable ambience.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Executive chef Geoff Baumberger, general manager Brady Pankow, beverage manager Bill Denhard
Why we love it: Marcella’s is relaxed, fun and laid back. Most importantly, they serve some of the best Italian food in the Valley. The staff is friendly and adept, and the entire family can have a terrific dining experience for a relatively bargain price.
Must-try menu items: This is a strong lineup, and it would be easy never to stray from the excellent starters, including carpaccio ($8.95), calamari ($9.95), delicious little fried cheese and rice balls called arancini ($6.95), melted pecorino cheese with apple slices and crusty bread ($9.95). Outstanding entrées include seafood risotto ($16.95); lamb ragu and gnocchi ($13.95); veal Marsala ($19.95); and a crunchy-crusted potato, pancetta, cheese and arugula pizza ($10.95). If you are forced to choose just one dessert, get the cherry croustada with vanilla gelato ($5.95). You’ll thank us.
Drink to die for: The Grapefruit Basil Fizz ($8.95) is made from Finlandia grapefruit vodka, a dollop of pressed apple cider and a fistful of muddled basil leaves. Sweet, tart and herbal, it is ultra refreshing.
Secret of the house: Wine Enthusiast Night. Every Wednesday diners can splurge on a great vino; every bottle on the list is half price.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Happy hour/specials: 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily; reverse happy hour from 9 p.m. to closing Fridays and Saturdays. Wines by the glass are $2 off, domestic beer is $3, imported draft beers are $4, sangria is $4 and all specialty cocktails and martinis go for $6. Appetizers are $4-$6, and whole pizzas are a screaming deal at $6.
Takes reservations: Yes
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Photo by David Moore
Roasted beet salad with watercress, boucheron cheese and salted pistachios |
Modern Steak7014 E. Camelback Road, Scottsdale
480-423-7000
foxrc.comOpened: October 2009
Cuisine: Contemporary American/Steakhouse
Price: $$$$
Atmosphere: If Sam Fox has built a restaurant empire on chic yet casual dining, this elegant retreat proves he also has a sophisticated side. Despite Modern’s steak-centric mood and often wallet-whacking prices ($46 for an à la carte 12-ounce filet), this is no stuffy clubhouse for overfed businessmen. Instead, there’s plenty of glitzy white and bright amid the dark wood furniture, from the ceiling of latticework, mirrors and glittery chandeliers to striking sculpture to the silvery stripes on the silky-fabric booths to the airiness of the kitchen in peek-a-boo frames of wine racks.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Owner Sam Fox, executive chef Andrew Ashmore, pastry chef Kelly Sappington, sommelier Stephanie Caraway
Why we love it: Let’s be honest. Valley diners love their steaks (witness the continuing proliferation of high-end beef houses). But Modern takes a fresh approach, respecting every appetite, from salad to seafood. Even vegetarians can get a first-rate meal, with entrées such as a mixed platter of artichoke tortelli, roasted mushrooms and asparagus salad ($16). Best of all, the beef is quality. Try the luxuriously marbled Snake River Farms wagyu in a 9-ounce rib eye ($67), or mix it up with a surf-n-turf side of butter-poached Maine lobster ($21).
Must-try menu items: Ahi tuna tartare poke gussied up with toasted garlic, avocado and yuzu caramel ($17) – ’nuff said. Or not, because you won’t want to miss king crab ($24), tucked in a mason jar and drenched in truffle-rich melted butter, or a cute-n-delicious foot-long Kobe beef hot dog ($18). And those are just appetizers. You must get beef – perhaps the toothsome 20-ounce bone-in rib eye ($48), though juicy Sonoma rack of lamb sweetened in honey jus beckons ($38). Sides are extra, but most are extra-special, such as mascarpone creamed corn ($9) or sweet potato purée capped in burnt marshmallow ($9). All of which leaves little room for dessert (all $8), though somehow, valiantly, we always find a way to fit in classics like molten chocolate cake.
Drink to die for: Classics are in the house, baby! From the full bar come Pimm’s Cup ($10), Tom Collins ($10) or an Old Fashioned ($11). But our stylish selves really appreciate the 2010 drinkage, like the Modern Swizzle ($11), which mixes cane rum, lime juice, snow, raspberry and orange bitters, elderflower and soda.
Secret of the house: Fox Restaurants may be a privately owned chain (it just entered the California market), but a personal touch still pervades in the friendly staff that will customize orders. Modern is open for lunch, too, for better bargains like an 8-ounce, herbed butter-topped center cut sirloin alongside a mound of French fries for $17.
Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; mid-day menu, 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. daily; dinner, 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday and Monday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday and Saturday
Happy hour/specials: 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday, offering palatable prices on food and drink. Eats like BBQ short rib sliders and oysters on the half shell are $2; sommelier’s choice wines are $5, and hard liquor like Fris Vodka is $5. However, happy hour will end September 30, and it’s unclear what type of happy hour (if any) will be put in its place.
Takes reservations: Yes, by phone or online
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Photo by Richard Maack
Chef Nobuo Fukuda and wife/business partner Sarah Fukuda |
Nobuo at Teeter House622 E. Adams St. (Heritage Square), Phoenix, 602-254-0600,
nobuofukuda.comOpened: July 2010
Cuisine: Japanese
Price: $-$$ (regular menu lunch, and dinner); $$$$ omakase (chef’s tasting menu)
Atmosphere: The space is small and often packed, but the ambiance is relaxed and spare like a true izakaya (small plates pub) in Japan. Yet, it’s really a cleverly adapted historic Victorian-style brick home on Heritage Square, transformed with paper shades and sheers on the windows, noren curtains, and bonsai plants tucked into wall-mounted branches as art. The tachinomi room has happy hour-style small plates ($5-$12); the two dining rooms feature more intricate shareable plates ($5-$20); while the tasting bar showcases omakase for just four diners at a time ($60 per person and up).
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Chef/owner Nobuo Fukuda, partner John Kapoor of JNK Concepts (Roka Akor, Bombay Spice, Puro Gelato)
Why we love it: Since last June, the Valley had felt rudderless, adrift in a Sea Saw-less desert. That was because James Beard Award-winner Fukuda had ended his partnership with restaurateur Peter Kasperski and closed Sea Saw, which had wowed diners with its intricate, multi-course omakase meals for the past seven years. So our hearts lifted, and stomachs rumbled, when Fukuda realized his dream this summer. Besides being a phenomenal food artist, he’s exquisitely dedicated to his craft, sourcing ingredients from the coveted Tokyo Tsukiji fish market, and importing delicacies from all secret corners of Japan.
Must-try menu items: Because Fukuda is a perfectionist, his menu was slow to evolve. That said, the menu changes often to reflect seasons, ingredient availability, and simply whatever mood Fukuda is in. Still, some early staples include a panko-fried soft shell crab sandwich on homemade focaccia slathered in kanzuri (chile-yuzu) aioli ($8), a melting, magical braised pork belly bun with pickled mustard greens ($4/$8), and an ebi (shrimp) salad tossing rice noodles with sweet mint, purple basil, crunchy cucumber, soy-glazed peanuts and salty-sour nuoc cham ($9). Dinner plates might feature silky yellowtail sashimi decorated in grapefruit, avocado and white truffle ponzu oil ($12); coconut curry grilled lamb with mango-fennel salad ($12), and Kumamoto oysters with uni, sweet tomato water and wasabi oil ($12).
Drink to die for: The selection of beers, sakes and wines is small but as carefully curated as the food – Japanese microbrews, omakase-paired wines and mixologist-crafted culinary cocktails.
Secret of the house: In a clever salute to both Asian tea culture and the heritage of Teeter House (formerly a Victorian tea room), Fukuda focuses on imported leaves – green, oolong, red, white, herbal infusions – with some presented in ceremonial Chinese Gongfu style. Complementing nibbles include mini bites such as ohagi – a sweet rice ball with red bean.
Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; tea, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; dinner, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; closed Mondays
Happy hour/specials: Not yet, but it’s on the radar later this fall. Call for details.
Takes reservations: For omakase only, by phone
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Photo by Richard Maack
Poisson entire pour deux (whole grilled fish for two) with sauce maltaise, asparagus and pomme cocotte
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Petite Maison7216 E. Shoeman Lane, Scottsdale
480-991-6887,
petitemaisonaz.comOpened: August 2009
Cuisine: French
Price: $$$
Atmosphere: This darling bistro is tiny (33 seats inside, 50 outside) but has a big heart. Cozy but fuss-free touches such as mini chandeliers and brocade fabrics provide a Euro-flourish that is classic yet fresh. A photo of Daisy, a chicken from local Superstition Farms, provides a quirky touch. Elbowroom is tight at the indoor tables; prime seating is on the romantic patio, especially near the fireplace in cool months. The bar fills up occasionally with pre- and post-Scottsdale clubbers.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Chef James Porter, general manager Wendy Porter
Why we love it: Expertly executed French classics at reasonable prices in a quaint, intimate space. It’s just as successful for a dinner out with a few friends or to celebrate an anniversary. It’s hard to believe at times we’re getting champagne tastes here on beer budgets. As you’d expect from Porter, ingredients are well-sourced, such as fresh-caught fish, velvety mussels and tender steaks. Because they have no freezer and such a small walk-in, they get deliveries six days a week, which is why everything tastes so fresh.
Must-try menu items: The menu rotates, but if you can, try soup à l’oignon (French onion soup, $7); steak tartare ($9); escargots en croute (snails in puff pastry, $6); moules saffran (mussels in saffron, $9); poisson entire pour deux (whole grilled fish for two, $38); steak frites (steak and fries, $19); or poulet rôti (roast chicken, $18).
Drink to die for: Try the refreshing Peartini ($11), made with Grey Goose Poire, St. Germaine and Champagne, and garnished with a slice of fresh pear.
Secret of the house: The “staff meal,” served along with the late-night menu, is announced daily on Twitter. Staff cooks usually prepare it, giving them time to shine, but every four to six weeks guest chefs (such as Matt Carter, Aaron May or Beau MacMillan) will pop in and work their magic with what’s on hand. They might make anything from Sonoran hot dogs to lobster Thermidor to beef tongue sliders to foie gras mac and cheese.
Hours: Brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; lunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily; late night, 10 p.m. to midnight Thursday through Saturday
Happy hour/specials: Staff meal items are $8 to $12; late night also features a $5 drink special
Takes reservations: Yes
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Photo by Richard Maack
Strawberry fields salad with strawberries, raspberries, avocado, pistachios and goat cheese |
Pomegranate Café 4025 E. Chandler Blvd., Ste. 28, Phoenix
480-706-7472
pomegranatecafe.comOpened: February 2010
Cuisine: Vegetarian/Vegan/Raw
Price: $-$$
Atmosphere: It’s relatively hidden away in a strip mall. It can be crowded as you elbow your way to the chalkboard menu at the counter, and neither service nor cooking is fast. But hey, are we here to rush or to enjoy the creative health food that’s so deliciously prepared that it hardly tastes like it could be so good for you? This casual café looks as cheerful and fresh as its ingredients, all bright with butter yellow walls lined with bottles arranged on shelves, loads of fresh flowers and art, and the most attention-grabbing attraction of it all: the cooks working in the open kitchen on rainbow-colored cakes, salads, sandwiches, wraps and bowls.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Chef-owners/mother-and-daughter team Marlene and Cassie Tolman
Why we love it: It can be a challenge to find such specific food as vegetarian, vegan and raw that doesn’t taste like twigs and leaves. Which is surprising, since what could be better than pure, all-natural Mother Earth bounty? But hang on: The Tolmans even do gluten-free goodies, such as raw cheesecake with a luxurious filling of blended cashews, blueberries, coconut oil and agave syrup atop a crust of macadamia nuts, coconut and dates. Their training helps, certainly. Marlene holds a certificate in patisserie and baking from the Scottsdale Culinary Institute, while Cassie is a graduate of The Natural Gourmet Cookery School in New York City.
Must-try menu items: The seasonal breakfast, lunch and early dinner menu is updated so often that there’s usually no printed version – just check the chalkboard. Yet fans have clamored so hard that there are often reliable favorites such as the raw collard wrap, a burrito of large green leaves (instead of tortillas) bursting with dairy-free almond cheese, carrots, tomato and avocado, dressed in a “living” Caesar that’s creamy with pine nuts, cashews and lemon juice, alongside homemade gluten-free flax seed crackers ($9.50). To start the day, dig into the Lumberjack sandwich, layering ancient grain toast with eggs or tofu, tempeh bacon, tomato, avocado and vegan or cheddar cheese ($8), or the raw buckwheat crispies parfait capped in fruit, berries and cashew cream ($6.50). Salute your home state with the Arizona roll: nori stuffed with almond spread and veggies served with cabbage salad, miso dressing, shoyu and wasabi ($10.50).
Drink to die for: The splish-splash selection showcases freshly squeezed organic, mostly local fruits and veggies. You may have had beet-orange-carrot-ginger juice ($4/$6) before, but how about earthy-tart leafy greens-cucumber-celery-lemon ($7)? There’s also a full coffee bar, smoothies, elixirs, teas and specialties like a Chia Jelly Shot rich in protein, fiber and omegas ($3.50).
Secret of the house: The dessert list is extraordinary – raw donut holes, for example, of dried pineapple, dates, nuts, coconut and cacao. Kids can’t complain, either, with child-friendly meals like quesadilla on a spelt tortilla with vegan or cheddar cheese alongside fresh fruit, veggies and an oatmeal cookie ($4.50). But if there is something you truly crave, just ask, and the Tolmans will do their best to make it for you.
Hours: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday
Happy hour/specials: None
Takes reservations: Yes, by phone, for parties of five or more only
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Photo by David Moore
Regina margherita pizza with fresh basil |
Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana6166 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-998-1366
pomopizzeria.com Opened: March 2010
Cuisine: Pizza
Price: $$
Atmosphere: Pomo has a high-fashion vibe with its subdued and sophisticated palette of black and cream setting off striking arched windows and a wall-sized photomural of a Neapolitan street scene. Italian “popera” (a new word meaning easily accessible tenor warblings) loops in the background. Nor does it hurt that the windows and little sliver of outdoor patio looks out onto one the Borgata’s San Gimignano-inspired cobblestone courtyards.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Owner Steffano Fabbri, chef and pizzaioli Matteo Schiavone
Why we love it: Talk about authentic: Pomo’s 6,000-pound, wood-burning oven was brought from Italy, and the resulting pies have been certified by the Verace Pizza Napoletana, a trade organization that rides hard on pizza standards for the city of Naples. It controls exactly how the pizzas are made and with what ingredients. Nor does it hurt that the bustling staff has that smooth European charm thing down pat.
Must-try menu items: The paper-thin, tender-crusted pies are things of beauty. Exactly 12 inches in diameter with a bubbled crust, they come with choice of tomato sauce or sauceless (white) and a seemingly endless variety of different, high-quality toppings ($9.95 to $15.95). Other excellent options include a terrific carpaccio (actually bresaola, air-dried beef, $12.95) and sturdy calzone ($14.95). But save room for dessert: The creamy panna cotta and deliciously offbeat combo of thinly sliced pineapple topped with puckery lemon sorbet, Grand Marnier and a sprinkle of chopped candied orange peel (both $7.95) is the last word in light and refreshing.
Drink to die for: Owner Fabbri is proud of his 100 percent Italian wine list featuring boutique labels rarely seen in the U.S.
Secret of the house: While ardent pizza fans know that imported San Marzano canned tomatoes is the preferred brand for pie-making, it isn’t common knowledge that there are a number of growers who raise the tomatoes. Fabbri has carefully sourced the farmer he feels produces the most flavorful tomatoes, and those are the only ones he purchases for use at Pomo.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Happy hour/specials: Enjoy half-off all drinks in the bar from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily.
Takes reservations: Yes. In fact, they are recommended.
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Photo by David Moore
Ravioli di passera (sea bream ravioli with Manila clams in king crab broth)
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Best ReinventionPrado4949 E. Lincoln Drive
(InterContinental Montelucia
Resort & Spa), Paradise Valley,
480-627-3200,
pradolife.comOpened: November 2008
Reinvented: March 2010
Cuisine: Italian
Price: $$$$
Atmosphere: Is this the Camelback neighborhood or the Kasbah? The graceful yet theatrical room blooms with Moorish arches and pillars, colorful murals and natural light sweeping through expansive windows. Camelback Mountain looms through the glass doors across the lavishly landscaped patio decorated in elaborate tile, Moroccan-style chandeliers, a fireplace and shocks of brilliant flowers.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Executive chef Claudio Urciuoli, general manager/wine director Brian Reeder, maitre d’ Paul Xanthopoulos
Why we love it: Prado debuted as an Andalusian-inspired restaurant, which didn’t make 100 percent sense since its star chef is Italian and a deep proponent of cooking in authentic, rustic Italian style (he’s a die-hard Slow Food supporter). Plus, the Valley has never really embraced Spanish cuisine, opting for more familiar flavors. With this new concept, Urciuoli celebrates his passions for handcrafted Italian delights, including burrata, pastas and regional accents like white controne beans. Yet he’s still able to appease mainstream tastes with staples such as spaghetti in meat sauce (actually, tagliolini draped in silky-rich grass-fed beef ragu, $18).
Must-try menu items: The seasonal emphasis means you’re in for delicious dining surprises, as Urciuoli celebrates his close relationships with the best boutique ingredient purveyors across the Valley and in Italy. Look to the “classics” list for consistent thrills, such as squid ink spaghettini stocked with calamari, monkfish and spicy San Marzano tomato sauce ($20), or Tenuta Castello risotto in a savory mélange of wild prawns, king crab and Fresno chili ($24). Some of the most prized ingredients are showcased in antipasto ($20), brimming with La Quercia prosciutto, perhaps, plus Spanish manchego, olives, quince jelly and panzanella crackers. And yes, that’s skate fish alongside the sea bass in the “Ciuppin” stew, beautiful and briny with mussels and Manila clams in a spicy crab broth ($30).
Drink to die for: The cocktail list still features Spanish concoctions, and for good reason. They are killer quaffs. Our favorite, Amante Picante ($12), blends Chinaco Blanco tequila, fresh cucumber and cilantro, combining it with agave nectar, fresh lime, and a touch of spice, then serving it “up” and chilled.
Secret of the house: Looking for exotic beer? It’s here: Peroni Nastro Azzurro (Italy, $5) Estrella Damm (Spain, $5) and Estrella Inedit (Spain, $15).
Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Happy hour/specials: M Bar serves specials 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday. House wines, spirits and tapas are $6, such as wild shrimp spiked with aji Amarillo chile and wild oregano, or grilled Medjool dates jazzed with bacon and habanero. By fall, the M Bar menu will be revamped with a greater Italian emphasis as well.
Takes reservations: Yes, by phone or online
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Photo by David Moore
Red beet root cake |
Renegade Canteen9343 E. Shea Blvd.,
Scottsdale
480-614-9400,
renegadecanteen.comOpened: June 2010
Cuisine: Contemporary American/Southwestern
Price: $$$-$$$$
Atmosphere: As its name suggests, any stylish cowboy would be completely at home here, tipping back a can of PBR or a split of Michel Turgy Blanc de Blancs French Champagne. The open space brims with wood and lots of it: on the floors, comprising the half walls, making up the tables, and on the pillars arranged like stacked crates. Check out the funky chandeliers, which resemble spiders wearing exposed light bulbs like sneakers on their feet. And if you’re wondering what kind of wine is being poured, there’s a sparkly glass cellar nested in the rough wood wall, sporting an impressive bottle display.
Outdoor seating: Yes (patio is not yet complete; the opening is scheduled for fall)
Key players: Chef Robert McGrath, owners Steven Goodhue and John Rosso
Why we love it: The ultra friendly, wonderfully personable Robert McGrath was a legend in these parts, even before he was officially recognized with a James Beard Award in 2001 for his work at Roaring Fork. He helped place the Valley as a serious culinary force in the nation with his distinctive Western American fare, and he wows us again here with his delicious, reasonably priced food (flatbread layered in succulent pork cheeks, marinara sauce, caramelized onions, arugula, mushroom and Parmesan, $13). Paired with a heaping helping of humor and hospitality (get your derriere in for “Buzzard Breath” chili capped in Fritos, Colby Longhorn and sour cream, $9), there’s simply no more fantastic, fun food to be had.
Must-try menu items: McGrath’s mission, as he puts it, is for Renegade to be a haven from the stress of everyday life, where we can “chill out” during dinner. And so there are comfort classics made original, like gooey, glorious green chile macaroni au gratin pimped in roasted corn, jalapeño, onion and sweet red pepper ($8), or a brick roasted “little chicken” done with desert sage pesto and garlic mashed potatoes ($14). Keep your taste buds alert for unexpected twists, such as cauliflower fondue flecked with Grape-Nuts alongside dunkables like wood-roasted butternut squash, apple, seasonal vegetables and bread ($9); or a crazy-tasty dessert of red beet root cake beneath carrot-vanilla gelato, pistachio brittle and carrot-beet powder ($7).
Drink to die for: Mouvedre, Torrontes and Gruner Veltliner – the extensive wine list spotlights boutique bottles from Spain, Argentina, Italy, France, Austria and the U.S., with a nod to Arizona labels such as Pillsbury Roan Red of Cochise County. You can also whet your whistle at the bar with a mighty fine margarita or martini.
Secret of the house: If you’re packing kids, it’s still a party, thanks to a fun Little Renegades menu that tempts tykes with plates like a hamburger and French fried taters ($6), meat loaf mounded over mashed potatoes ($5), and Campbell’s tomato soup with buttered crackers ($3).
Hours: Bar opens at 3 p.m. daily with abbreviated menu; dinner 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. nightly.
Happy hour/specials: 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily, but you might easily make it your entire dinner. It’s a full menu with bargains galore, offering indulgences such as McGrath’s renowned spicy green chile pork stew tucked in a small cast-iron pot and scooped up with buttered flour tortillas ($8), “gato-fish” tacos (that’s catfish in Spanish, ha!), fancied with chipotle vinaigrette and queso ($8), or a nostalgic tortilla dip of Velveeta, Jimmy Dean’s spicy sausage and Ro-Tel tomatoes ($8). Loosen your belt for Bob’s Big Burger ($12), a fantasy of 12 ounces of beef loaded with cheese, green chile, thick-cut peppered bacon, grilled onion, tomato and romaine paired with fries. Drink deals range from $3 beers to $5 cocktails and wines.
Takes reservations: Yes, by phone
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Photo by David Moore
Seafood soup with shrimp, mussels, clams, fish and vegetables |
St. Francis11 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix
602-200-8111
stfrancisaz.comOpened: September 2009
Cuisine: American
Price: $$
Atmosphere: The term “urban loft” was invented to describe places like St. Francis. It was a plain-Jane, mid-20th century office building until Wendell Burnett Architects’ canny rehab took it down to the original brick walls and up to the exposed rafters. The addition of huge windows and a two-story, garage door-like apparatus melds the indoors with the out. It simply screams “cool, contemporary space.”
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Executive chef/owner Aaron Chamberlin, sous chef Tony Snyder, general manager Amy Delreal, bar manager Boots Byrd
Why we love it: St. Francis is a genre-buster. Though it is often described as a neighborhood restaurant, it really doesn’t fall into any recognizable Cheers-like category. The environs are too sophisticated, as is the food lineup. On the other hand, it’s inclusive and accessible with plenty of light, snacky options that don’t demand a full sit-down meal. Prices are easygoing by today’s standards. Chamberlin is serious about supporting his local community, and by September he intends for the restaurant to be open all day every day, providing a place to grab coffee and pastries in the morning, a quick lunch, a happy hour refresher or a loaf of the terrific bread to take home.
Must-try menu items: Seasonality plays a major role at St. Francis, which means the menu changes frequently. Soups are a great canvas for Chamberlin’s creative way with fresh-from-local-farm ingredients. Look for sweet corn chowder and pumpkin with crème fraiche ($6) to star in the fall. Always on the menu and always worthy are the French onion burger ($13), imaginatively topped flatbreads ($13), pork and green chile stew ($12) and wood-fired oven-roasted chicken or pork chops ($18, $24). Desserts shine, especially the date-studded toffee pudding ($7).
Drink to die for: There are two: the Dark’n Stormy, a kick-it-up combo of ginger beer and dark rum with spiced syrup, and the Almond Margarita, made with Almendrado tequila liqueur (both $9).
Secret of the house: The mezzanine. Tucked upstairs, this intimate space is perfect for a quiet, relaxed tête-à-tête. It can also be rented for private parties and gatherings.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday; 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday
Happy hour/specials: 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily, featuring free help-yourself bar snacks, $5 cocktails, $3 draft beer and $10 craft wines.
Takes reservations: Yes, but on a limited basis so walk-ins can also be accommodated. Call early.
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Photo by Richard Maack
Chicken Pad Thai with Thai iced tea |
Tottie’s Asian Fusion 26204 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale
480-998-8220
tottiesasianfusion.comOpened: August 2009
Cuisine: Chinese/Thai/Vietnamese
Price: $$
Atmosphere: An elegant black, red and gold color scheme sets the stage for objets d’art from several Asian nations, including owner Tottie Kaya’s country of origin, Laos. But no one will confuse this upbeat place for a museum. As you enter, the bar and lounge beckon, and through the archways, stone-accented walls and vibrant red tablecloths provide the backdrop for a slicker, more uptown version of Tottie’s original location at Thomas and Hayden roads.
Outdoor seating: Yes, but no alcohol served
Key players: Owner Tottie Kaya, manager Kenta Usuzawa
Why we love it: Variety, quality and hospitality. You’d be hard-pressed to find better Chinese, Thai or Vietnamese food in town, let alone all three under one roof. Kaya scours Lee Lee Oriental Supermart personally to find the freshest produce for her dishes, and when she’s not out shopping, she’s in the kitchen cooking or out on the floor greeting cherished patrons and making them feel like guests in her own home.
Must-try menu items: Potstickers ($5), Tottie rolls ($6.95), beef yum gai ($8.95), kung pao chicken ($8.95), red curry salmon ($12.95), shrimp panang ($12.95), beef pad kra pao ($9.50), homemade ice cream ($3.95)
Drink to die for: Lychee saketo – a combination of sake and mojito – with muddled mint, lychee juice and sake ($7)
Secret of the house: Tottie herself makes the non-dairy coconut milk ice cream, a vegan treat, almost daily. It comes in 10 rotating flavors, including coconut (the best-seller), avocado, lychee, Japanese cacao and coffee, jackfruit, durian and dragonfruit, a seasonal treat available in October.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday
Happy hour/specials: 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; $5 house wines, well drinks and signature cocktails; $3.50 draft beers and $5 “Tottie’s Tapas”
Takes reservations: Yes
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Photo by David Moore
The Zinburger with Manchego and Zinfandel-braised onions |
Zinburger2502 E. Camelback Road
(Biltmore Fashion Park), Phoenix
602-424-9500
foxrc.comOpened: March 2010
Cuisine: Burgers
Price: $$
Atmosphere: The bustling rectangular room is surrounded on two sides with an inviting patio punctuated by lime green umbrellas. Décor is relaxed and cheeky (not many burger purveyors have a giant mural of ruminating cows looking down on the equally ruminating patrons). A long bar, which is half outside and half inside, lends a cool malt shop sensibility, and there’s plenty of conventional table and booth seating as well.
Outdoor seating: Yes
Key players: Executive chef Chris Cristiano, general manager Peter Hearn, owner Sam Fox
Why we love it: Well, who doesn’t love a great burger? And that’s exactly what Zin provides. They do it with a smile, too. The staff exudes cheer and goodwill and genuinely goes all out to make it a primo experience for the customer.
Must-try menu items: The Zinburger is a meaty masterpiece, plump and moist on a house-made bun draped with melty Manchego cheese and Zinfandel-braised onions ($10). Not quite as exotic but equally satisfying is the Samburger topped with applewood-smoked bacon, American cheese and good old Thousand Island dressing ($10). Props on the juicy Kobe burger ($14) as well. (There are also turkey and veggie burgers for those inclined at $10 and $9.) Parmesan-crusted zucchini sticks with ranch dressing ($5) are even better than the very good truffled potato fries ($6). Those in the mood for a big, crunchy salad will enjoy the Chinese chicken salad ($10). Sipping a thick, frosty strawberry cheesecake shake or root beer float (both $6) is a hedonistic back-to-childhood delight.
Drink to die for: The Black Lager Float ($6). Made with Sessions Black Lager beer and vanilla ice cream, it does sound a little scary, but it’s remarkably smooth and satisfying. Sweet, unctuous creaminess and a suggestion of bitter bite makes this sophisticated combination a real winner.
Secret of the house: Zin’s grillmeister tends to err on the side of rareness, which is fine for those who like their meat still mooing. But those who want their beef cooked a bit more need to speak up.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Happy hour/specials: No
Takes reservations: No