Photos by Richard Maack tomatoes with red onion and Idiazabal cheese (front) with Ensalada de arroz con atún

Missing the tasty tapas of Sol y Sombra? Yearn no more. Aaron May is back with equally tempting small plates in Old Town Scottsdale.

Fans of the former Sol y Sombra in DC Ranch – or anyone yearning for expertly prepared small plates – shouldn’t dally before going to Iruña. Aaron May’s slick new tapas restaurant and lounge in Old Town Scottsdale is a reincarnation with a strikingly similar menu. And that’s a good thing.

The name is the Basque word for the city of Pamplona (of running with the bulls fame). Chef Brian Barry brings a solid résumé that includes big-name restaurants from both coasts. The quality of ingredients, variety of dishes, balance of flavors and warm, attentive service will ensure that this becomes an Old Town favorite.

Fish fanatics will adore ensalada de arroz con atún ($9), a lively combo of poached tuna, black and white rice, peas and lemon thyme vinaigrette. Another standout is salpicón de cangrejo ($11), a chilled crab salad with slices of pickled cauliflower, cucumbers, wisp-thin red pepper slices, tomatoes and sherry dressing.

On the lighter side, soft lettuces with Rioja vinaigrette ($8), whole leaves of Bibb topped with spiced almonds and Manchego cheese, is a refreshing break from the ubiquitous wedge. Meaty tomatoes with paper-thin red onions and Idiazabal cheese in sherry vinaigrette ($8) are simple but phenomenal.

The tortilla española ($4), layers of potato and egg, and smooth, puréed gazpacho ($5) are skillfully executed classics. So are gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp, $10), gussied up with smoked paprika and creamy aioli. However, the smoked paprika overpowered the calamari ($9). Half of a shelled Maine lobster ($18) in a lusty stock with corn and crispy bits of Serrano ham is a sweet and savory explosion.

If you try one meat, make it lomo con Romesco ($12), expertly cooked pork loin on a garlicky bed of crunchy Romesco topped with pickled onion. Runners-up include the filet mignon with salbitxada ($16), a sauce of mainly tomatoes, onion, ground almonds and sherry; the addictive chicken meatballs with truffle jus ($9); and pollo colonial, pulled chicken in a lip-smacking sweet-spicy sauce ($9).

Desserts are the weak link: Spend your calorie allotment on another tapa, a cocktail or a glass of sangria ($6). Both red and white versions are outstanding. The compact wine list appropriately leans toward Spain but has international flourishes.

lomo con Romesco

DETAILS
Iruña
Cuisine: Spanish
Address: 7217 E. First St., Scottsdale
Phone: 480-398-3020 • Website: irunaaz.com
Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday; 5 p.m. to midnight Thursday through Saturday (hours might expand)
Highlights: Ensalada de arroz con atún (salad of tuna and rice, $9); salpicón de cangrejo (crab salad, $11); tomatoes with red onion and Idiazabal cheese ($8); chicken meatballs with truffle jus ($9); lomo con Romesco (pork loin, $12); lobster with corn and Serrano ham ($18)