Photos by Richard Maack Omelet with sticky buns

The iconic restaurant is back after a much-anticipated renovation, but it still needs work to stay relevant.

Though I’ve dined at El Chorro Lodge many times over the years, I was never a regular (by virtue of the job, restaurant reviewers move from place to place like migratory birds). I did like it for what it was: a clubby, slightly shabby enclave crowded with people who looked as if they’d been planted there since the doors first opened.

Even as Paradise Valley developed from raw desert to luxury locale, the 11-acre spread with its eye-popping view of Camelback Mountain remained unaltered. The overflowing dusty gravel parking lot, bustling patio and tired-looking warren of dining rooms gave the impression of a perpetual impromptu party. Food was irrelevant to the experience – even if those really sticky sticky buns served with meals did become legendary.

When the Great El Chorro Upheaval (new ownership, subsequent closing and renovation, much trumpeted reopening) took place, I stood by and listened to the anticipatory chatter that was followed by no end of opinions assessing the redo. Now I’ve seen for myself the fruit of the partnership between philanthropist Jacquie Dorrance and former Continental Catering owners Christy and Tim Moore.

half rack of lamb

The update is dazzling. Each detail whispers integrity, not to mention no-expenses-spared. Everything has been done with unerring taste, preserving the restaurant’s spirit yet gently ushering it into the present. Gutted and refigured, the main building now has a wide-open floor plan that includes an almost wall-sized opening framing Camelback. There’s a new indoor-outdoor bar in addition to the separate Old Classroom bar, so named because the Judson school once occupied the property. This also got a fresh look, though I sort of miss the golden patina that years of nicotine had given it.

Architecture, furniture, accessories, artwork, table settings and lighting are Southwestern inspired in the best possible way. The surrounding landscaping is botanical garden quality. Even the rough-hewn parking lot has been tamed. And no matter what time of day, the property shows a different and equally lovely face.

Brunch, lunch and dinner menus are anachronistic by today’s standards – let’s call the style Old-fashioned Middle American. On a peaceful Sunday morning, ensconced on the patio, it’s easy to decide among standard breakfast fare and a few salads and sandwiches. Eggs Benedict with choice of Canadian bacon, smoked salmon or plump crab cake ($21) is beautifully done; the hollandaise is extra buttery and a nest of pan-fried potatoes is a crisp foil for the saucy richness. A broiled tomato half and grilled asparagus are the house plate garnishes. Sometimes the asparagus is sufficiently grilled but too often it’s almost raw. Omelet fillings vary; tangy goat cheese and shrimp with brunoised veggies ($16) work beautifully. A frothy tangerine freeze ($6) is a refreshing virginal substitute for a mimosa or bloody Mary.

At lunch, the cool, dim dining room is the place to settle for a gabfest with the girls or a business lunch. Again, choices are standard-issue salads and sandwiches. The daily specials ($18) offer some blasts from El Chorro’s past: Tuesday’s is a sturdy chicken potpie, and Thursday features my object of desire, chicken livers. A staggering pile of the moist, intensely flavored nuggets have a whisper of crunchy batter and are lavished with slices of salty bacon. On the side there’s the nicely roasted potatoes and the tomato-asparagus pairing. Delicious.

Trout almondine

The not-unpleasantly-greasy burger ($13) on a house-made bun is just OK. Grilling the red onion slices lightly is a nice touch but not quite enough in a town rich with designer burgers. (If you want cheese, just ask, no charge.) Back to the drawing board with both the wan, carelessly assembled Caesar salad with overly soft polenta croutons ($9) and the potentially great steak-and-onion soup ($9). A beefy take on classic French onion, it was served lukewarm, which only accentuated the salty, metallic taste of commercial base.

Am I the only one who thinks accompanying dinner with a breakfast pastry is just weird? Well, those fabled sticky buns are smaller now and seem stickier than ever. Those who feel as I do can just ask for them sacked up for the next morning; it’ll be done with a smile. In fact, there isn’t a warmer, more accommodating staff anywhere.

The dinner menu is poorly thought out. There are only three appetizers: delicious meaty crab cakes ($15), a pretty standard shrimp cocktail ($20) and a cheese and charcuterie plate ($18 and $32), which seems more like a bar snack. All the other starters are soups and salads. Entrées also come with soup or salad. Soup is the best bet. A light, flavor-packed, puréed pea and mint concoction one night was refreshing. Dinner salad, however, is a stripped down little number that reminds me of banquet food, and it makes the complimentary relish tray redundant. During the following visit I tried the beet salad ($10), which consisted of a pile of greens and a beet-and-goat cheese stack. Cutting the stack and trying to distribute it among the greens was a pain. Pretty doesn’t always mean practical.

That old favorite fried lobster tail (small $36, large $59) is inexplicably among the starters. Even the “small” is huge. It was also overcooked and tough, reeking of much-used oil. Another Valley institution, Pete’s Fish & Chips, could teach the kitchen a few things about frying seafood. On the other hand, a generous crumb-dusted half rack of lamb ($44) is better than ever, mild, juicy and satisfying. Trout almondine ($28) is equally good. But, oh, that stroganoff! Dig out the old recipe if you must serve it, because beef and gravy on noodles with shredded carrots and a plop of sour cream on top ($30) is not stroganoff. Among the sides, the truffle fries ($7) are a textbook-perfect delight.

Raspberry and white chocolate mousse

On the dessert end, the praline pyramid ($8) sounds enticing, but it’s just an indistinct mousse encased in waxy chocolate. The puckery lemon-lime tart ($8) topped with meringue and cradled in a buttery, rustic crust is much better. Classic cocktails still hold sway, and wines by the glass are well chosen and mostly bargains.

While visually stunning, El Chorro’s timid menu tweaks may alienate old-timers, and they certainly won’t bring in adventurous younger diners. The bottom line seems to be a face-lifted anachronism that has a foot in two different generations, neither of which has a leg to stand on in today’s competitive dining scene.

DETAILS
El Chorro Lodge
Cuisine: American
Address: 5550 E. Lincoln Drive, Paradise Valley
Phone: 480-948-5170 • Website: elchorrolodge.com
Hours: 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday,
11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Thursday and Friday, 3 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Saturday
Highlights: Omelet ($16), eggs Benedict ($21), chicken livers ($18), crab cakes ($15), truffle fries ($7), half rack of lamb ($44), trout almondine ($28), seasonal lemon-lime tart ($8)