Photo by David Moore No. 3 burger (dry jack cheese, green chile, chipotle, avocado) with onion rings and sweet potato fries

Even if you’ve had your fill of burger joints, save room for this stylish little ‘burger bar’ that turns out some tasty toppings.

Burger joints are a dime a dozen in the Valley, so when the Hollywood-based 25 Degrees opened last summer at CityNorth, I wondered: Do we really need another burger outpost, especially one where the cheapest burger, sans fries, is $9, and dressing it up can push the price as high as your imagination?

The short answer is yes. This swanky “bordello meets burger bar” is dark and sexy at night and smart and stylish during the day. More than just another burger haunt, even though the menu is peppered with patties (ground sirloin, turkey, veggie, tuna), it also sports an appealing lineup of grazing plates, salads and sandwiches. The staff actually greets you – coming and going – and dotes on you in between.

The beef burger isn’t all that beefy – it’s too lean and under seasoned. What makes 25 Degrees stand out is all the things that surround the paper-wrapped burgers, starting with the biggest, softest, most heavenly brioche burger buns, toasted of course.

It’s also the choice of 13 cheeses (add $2), including tangy mezzo secco (dry) jack and pungent, triple crème Red Hawk from Cowgirl Creamery in California. And it’s the depth of the “extras” (add $1 each) like roasted tomatoes and hatch green chiles. Choose from one of 14 sauces, like gallego (spicy red pepper) and tarragon remoulade ($.50 each).

chocolate chip cookies with malted milk and bourbon-salted caramel milkshake

The most economical way to approach 25 Degrees is to order one of the three burgers at the top of the menu, all priced at $10.50. Especially fetching is the No. 2, with deeply flavored roasted tomatoes, pesto, prosciutto and creamy burrata. I’m less enthusiastic about the yellowfin tuna burger ($12.50). It’s overcooked despite the recommended “rare,” and has a mealy texture.

The same aioli-dressed, chopped tuna is superb when it’s raw and sitting atop crispy, battered and fried eggplant disks ($12), one of several outstanding appetizers, including light, crunchy tempura green and yellow beans ($9). The battered, thick-cut onion rings ($5) are tasty, too. I’m not sold on the dusty-tasting herbs (rosemary and thyme) clinging to the skinny fries ($4), and the sweet potato fries ($5) are just average, but they do arrive at the table while you wait.  

 If you tire of the limitless possibilities, try the grilled Boback hot dog ($7) topped with grilled onions and sauerkraut, or the fried egg sandwich with thick-cut ham and cheddar cheese ($9).

For dessert, try three warm chocolate chip cookies with a shot of malted milk ($7). Or consider combining dessert and libation with a grown-up milkshake. The salty caramel ($8), spiked with Bulleit bourbon, butterscotch, vanilla bean ice cream and Hawaiian sea salt will make you welcome 25 Degrees to the ’hood, too.

DETAILS

25 Degrees
Cuisine: Burgers
Address: 5415 E. High St., Phoenix (at CityNorth)
Phone: 480-502-1125
Website: 25degreesrestaurant.com
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Monday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m., Friday; 8 a.m. to 1 a.m., Saturday; 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday
Highlights: Tempura green & yellow beans ($9); onion rings ($5); No. 2 burger ($10.50); bourbon-salted caramel milkshake ($8)