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Food Reviews

2009 Best New Restaurants

Author: Ashlea Deahl, Adam Klawonn & Keridwen Cornelius
Issue: October, 2009, Page 86




Photo by Richard Maack

Chicken breast stuffed with homemade mozzarella, spinach and spices, served with sautéed vegetables
17. Pastis Delicatessen & EuroGrille
1935 S. Val Vista Drive, Mesa
480-926-3354
pastisaz.com

Cuisine: European

Price: $$

Atmosphere: Tucked away in a nondescript strip mall in east Mesa, Pastis is a welcoming little lunch and dinner spot for those craving something other than chain food. Pretty and personable, the café also houses a mini market full of European delicacies like hard-to-find cookies, coffees, jams, olive oils, pastas and smoked meats.

Outdoor seating: Yes

Key Players: Luka Muslin runs Pastis with partners (and longtime soccer buddies) Slaven Grubisha (the chef) and Steve Djekic, whose brother-in-law and sister own Va Bene in Chandler. With roots in Serbia and France, Muslin wanted to bring a European sensibility to the east side of the Valley. “There’s nothing like this on this side of town,” he says. “We would have been just one of many had we opened in Scottsdale.”

Why we love it: Pastis refers to the anise-flavored liqueur favored by the French as an aperitif or as a sociable drink shared with friends at the end of the day. It’s an apropos name for a place with an affable vibe, which, coupled with Muslin’s ‘come one, come all’ charm, we can’t get enough of. Well, those sweet French crêpes, savory stuffed meats, gourmet salads and hearty sandwiches have something to do with it, too. It never hurts to inject Mesa with a dose of someone else’s culture, and Muslin has delivered with his authentic modern European bistro.

Must-try menu items: Muslin praises the chicken Cordon Bleu – a lightly breaded breast of chicken stuffed with homemade mozzarella, ham and spices ($14.75) – as both his favorite and most popular dish on the menu. In fact, there’s plenty of stick-to-your-ribs stuffed meat to marvel at here, so go hungry. We also love the Chevapi – juicy Slavic ground sirloin links served with lepinja bread, chopped onions and homemade hummus ($9.75) – and the stuffed Pastis burger ($9.75), a plump patty packed with homemade mozzarella and served with fries and hot peppers (heart burn, be damned). On the sweeter side, you can’t go wrong with the crêpes, which come with toppings like Nutella, bananas, strawberries, coconut, apricots and walnuts, among others.

Drink to die for: Pastis is the obvious choice, and if you’ve never savored the licorice-laden beverage, it’s worth a sip. But don’t ignore the unique beer selection, which boasts rare brews from Poland, Slovakia and Russia. Muslin also recommends a strong Serbian plum brandy for those who like a little kick with their meal.

Secret of the house: Muslin says he spends a great deal of time on each recipe, picking premium cuts of meat, seasoning them with special “European seasonings,” and testing each dish until it’s worthy of gracing the menu.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Friday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday through Sunday

Happy hour/specials: discounts on drinks and appetizers every day from 3 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.; live music Friday and Saturday nights; martini Wednesdays, $3 house wine and discounts on bottles of wine each Thursday; Monday night football specials to come

Takes reservations: Yes, by phone


Photo by Richard Maack

Foie gras torchon “brûlée” with huckleberry sauce and poached pear compote
18. Posh
7167 E. Rancho Vista Drive, Ste. 111, Scottsdale (Optima Camelview Village)
480-663-7674
poshscottsdale.com

Cuisine: Modern American

Price: Four courses $45, eight-plus courses $105

Atmosphere: Chef/owner Joshua Hebert modeled Posh after his favorite bars and restaurants in Tokyo. Think a bustling version of the movie Lost in Translation – sleek steel, grays, blacks and wraparound glass. Sit at the exhibition kitchen to watch the gastronomic theater or at the petite black tables looking out on the foliage-fringed modern architecture of the Optima Camelview Village condos.

Outdoor Seating: No

Key Players: Chef/owner Joshua Hebert, formerly of Dual in Gilbert

Why we love it: Posh is the blind date of the restaurant world: an adventurous exercise in trust. This is “improvisational cuisine,” so there’s no menu; you just tell the chef what you like and don’t like, and he conjures up dishes so inventive they should be patented. “It’s great to be surprised,” Hebert says. “There’s a mystique about it, and people have fun.” We love the spontaneity, and the mystery doesn’t feel risky because the results are so reliably sensational. However, Hebert cautions people not to fall in love with any of the dishes, because they probably won’t see them again.

Must-try menu items: With no set menu it’s anybody’s guess, but here’s a sampling from a recent visit: uni panna cotta –­ a sublimely creamy incarnation of sea urchin; pheasant pseudo-lasagna with homemade pasta and favas – reminiscent of a swanky, Italian chicken noodle soup; kangaroo with meaty mushrooms and glazed broccoli stems; and the “Posh Twinkie,” a charming lemon cake filled with green tea mousse paired with a nest of spun sugar.

Drink to die for: With cuisine this innovative it’s no wonder the cocktails are eye-openers. The Manhattan Transplant ($12) starts off sweet and bourbon-y from Maker’s Mark and vermouth, but what’s that subtle sting at the finish? Chili pepper syrup. Feeling bold? Up the ante with a love-it-or-hate-it red curry mint julep ($8).

Secret of the house: If you splurge on the eight-course dinner with wine pairings ($165), you’ll be rewarded with samples of 14 or 15 different wines. “It’s a three-and-a-half-hour experience,” Hebert says, “and we pour some pretty ridiculous wines.”

Hours: 5 p.m. to close, Tuesday through Saturday

Happy hour/specials: Every night from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., four courses go for $35 (regularly $45).

Takes reservations: Yes


Photo by David Moore

Prado
19. Prado
4949 E. Lincoln Drive,
Paradise Valley (InterContinental Montelucia Resort & Spa)
480-627-3004
pradolife.com


Cuisine: Spanish-inspired

Price: $$$$

Atmosphere: From the maroon- and mahogany-colored couches and sexy paintings in the Moroccan-inspired Mbar to the graceful Spanish arches and open fireplace in the main dining room to the colorful tiles and flowers in the fountainside patio, Prado’s sumptuous Mediterranean décor wows. Luxurious yet comfortable enough to linger in, this resort restaurant is a destination in and of itself.

Outdoor Seating: Yes, with stunning views of the Alhambra-inspired pool area and Camelback Mountain

Key Players: Chef Claudio Urciuoli, formerly of Different Pointe of View

Why we love it: While most hotel restaurants wade in the culinary shallow end, at Prado we can’t pronounce the menu items. And we love to be challenged, especially by easy-on-the-taste-buds selections like an antipasto of La Quercia culaccia, manchego, Castelvetrano and Empeltre olives, doce de tomate and Valenciano crackers. (Take that, spellchecker.) Where else in the Valley can you order black squid ink fideua (spaghetti-esque noodles cooked like a paella) with red snapper, I’itoi onions and corona beans? Even a safe bet like lamb T-bone gets gussied up by merguez (spicy north African sausage), Taggiasche olives and nepitella (a Tuscan mint).

Must-try menu items: The menu says the paella feeds two, but we assume they mean two sumo wrestlers. It’s cooked in the traditional flat skillet, studded with a daily changing smorgasbord of meats such as chicken, scallops, prawns, bacon or possibly all of the above. The Caprese “salad” ($15) is reinvented as a stack of olive oil-drenched bread, creamy burrata cheese, slow-roasted tomatoes and, seasonally, sautéed radicchio. For dessert, feel like a Madrileño as you dunk cinnamon churros into pudding-like chocolate ($8). Another tip: The daily specials are often the stars of the show.

Drink to die for: The Spanish Mojito ($12) redefines the ubiquitous Cuban drink with the flavors of Spain and Morocco. Bartenders simmer figs, fennel seeds, star anise and sugar into a syrup, then muddle it with fresh mint and lime juices, anoint the mixture with Flor de Cana rum, and garnish it with star anise and a mint sprig.

Secret of the house: Ferdinand’s Wine Cellar is available for private dining and features more than 300 reserve wines and 17th century doors from the medieval town of Sos del Rey Catolico, birthplace of King Ferdinand of Aragon.

Hours: Breakfast 7 to 11 a.m., daily; lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., daily; dinner 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday

Happy hour/specials: 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., Monday through Friday at Mbar; $5 house wines, house cocktails, beers and tapas

Takes reservations: Yes


Photo by David Moore

Sushi Roku
20. Sushi Roku
7277 E. Camelback Road, Scottsdale
(W Scottsdale Hotel & Residences)
480-970-2121
sushiroku.com

Cuisine: Sushi/Japanese

Price: $$$-$$$$

Atmosphere: Much like its counterparts in Las Vegas, Hollywood, Pasadena and Santa Monica, Scottsdale’s Sushi Roku is downright sexy. That one word pretty much sums up this hot spot, located just off the main entrance to the equally hip W Scottsdale Hotel. Black slate flooring, a leather-tiled bar, an oversized chandelier and a winding steel staircase suspended over an infinity-edge bed of water are just some of the flashy elements you’ll find yourself surrounded by. It’s the perfect setting for an intimate third date or a bachelor/bachelorette shindig.

Outdoor seating: Follow that winding staircase to a cozy rooftop patio adjacent to the W’s sparkling pool.

Key Players: Executive Chef Tim Fields and General Manager Seth Glassman keep things flavorful, flirty and fun.

Why we love it: When we’re in the mood to see, be seen and sip, Roku is our go-to spot. Throw in a bevy of kinky cocktails, an endless crowd of cougars, sex kittens and would-be swingers, and you’ve got the recipe for a great night out. This might be enough on its own, but the menu also happens to deliver some seriously tasty sushi and authentic Japanese hot plates.

Must-try menu items: Ignite the taste buds with a starter of Japanese yellowtail sashimi with chiles ($15), fresh salmon daikon with caviar ($22), or spicy hanabi tuna on tiny crispy rice cakes ($12). We also love the homemade tofu steak with sautéed mushrooms ($11), and we can’t stop popping those creamy bites of popcorn rock shrimp tempura into our mouths ($14). In the mood to splurge? Try the premium Japanese Wagyu beef with grilled shiitake mushrooms and tomato maki ($46). And, of course, there’s an extensive list of sashimi, rolls and maki to make one fabulous sushi spread out of.

Drink to die for: Nothing pairs better with our sushi than the ginger lychee mojito, made with Bacardi rum, fresh mint, lychee fruit, ginger, vanilla and fresh lime ($13). There’s also a tempting selection of cold sakes and a few Japanese beer options to whet our whistles. If you’re feeling extra saucy, order the Passion and Spice – a fruity, fiery mix of passion fruit vodka, essence of orange Curaçao, crushed jalapeños, orange slices and lemon juice ($12).

Secret of the house: The best seat in the house is at the sushi bar, where brave diners are rewarded when they give themselves over to omakase (chef’s choice). You won’t be disappointed.

Hours: 6:30 a.m. to noon, Saturday and Sunday; 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday through Friday; 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday

Happy hour/specials: 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily, featuring $5 drink specials, $5 appetizers and a lengthier half-price menu of signature dishes

Takes reservations: Yes, by phone or online


Photo by Richard Maack

Beef Salad
21. Takeda Thai
10271 N. Scottsdale Road,
Scottsdale
480-483-5006
takedathai.com

Cuisine: Thai

Price: $$-$$$

Atmosphere: A sexy metal exterior, marble tiles, granite tables, cherry wood accents and a wave-shaped banquette lend the small restaurant a modern feel, despite the antique-looking art. And the alternative rock/jazz soundtrack is a refreshing change from the somnambulant Muzak that permeates many Asian restaurants.

Outdoor Seating: Yes

Key Players: First-time restaurant owners Moulay and Sara Takeda

Why we love it: Takeda doesn’t reinvent Thai food, but did it need to be? If you’re looking for a pretty, modern restaurant serving fresh, authentic fare that strikes the right balance between spicy and sweet, this is the place. Some Thai restaurants intimidate with stern service and a litany of incomprehensible entrées. Takeda’s friendly staff will help you navigate the already approachable one-page menu, which pares down the choices to a handful of favorites, plus some intriguing alternatives. And at $7.95 for entrée, soup and egg roll, the lunch specials are a deal.

Must-try menu items: Start with the popular tom kha gai soup ($8.95), a piquant broth of lime juice, galangal and lemongrass mellowed by coconut milk and studded with chicken and mushrooms. If you like the buffalo version, try the “angel wings,” boneless wings stuffed with veggies and glass noodles zapped with a sweet chili dipping sauce. You can’t go wrong with the beautifully presented red or green curry – not too spicy but oh so coconutty ($13.95). And we love the pad kee mao ($13.95), short and wide (read: user-friendly) noodles tossed with charred tomatoes and mixed veggies in a delicate spicy-smoky sauce.

Drink to die for: Thai drinks are calibrated to counteract spiciness. Go for a sweet Thai iced tea or Thaitini (Thai tea with vodka) or an easy-drinking Singha or Chang lager.

Secret of the house: It took Sara Takeda six months to develop the recipe for her coconut ice cream, and it’ll take you about 60 seconds to devour it. We don’t know what her secret is, but it’s the freshest, most luscious version of this creamy treat we’ve ever had. And the sweet, sticky rice underneath will titillate your taste buds.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Thursday;
11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday;
12 p.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday

Happy hour/specials: No

Takes reservations: Yes


Photo by Richard Maack

True Food Kitchen
22. True Food Kitchen
2502 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix
(Biltmore Fashion Park)
602-774-3488,
foxrc.com/true_food_kitchen.html

Cuisine: International

Price: $$-$$$

Atmosphere: True Food oozes warmth, comfort and minimalism all at once. Springtime colors of lemon and grassy green complement light wood tones, and the open-view kitchen adds some spectacle to an otherwise prim place.
Outdoor seating: Yes

Key Players: We have another winner from Sam Fox Restaurant Concepts (FRC). For this venture Fox recruited Executive Chef Michael Stebner, who created the healthy menu in conjunction with world-renowned health guru Dr. Andrew Weil. FRC Beverage Director Regan Jasper designed the all-natural drink list.

Why we love it: Even if Fox shies away from the term “health food,” the nutritious menu is exactly what keeps us coming back. “True Food Kitchen is not a health food restaurant,” he says. “But it does serve great-tasting food that also happens to be good for you.” True. It’s also evident that great care goes into each dish, emphasizing simple but bold flavors and local and regional ingredients. We also love that it’s one of the greenest restaurants in town, and one of only a few restaurants that offers gluten-free dishes for our celiac comrades. We could go on and on, so here are just a few more reasons we want TF to be our BF: pizza crusts and pita breads made in-house with organic flour, spelt and flax seed; 13 vegetarian and five vegan dishes; plum tomatoes from Tuscany on the pizzas; and takeout for diners on the go.

Must-try menu items: Everything is bite-worthy, but we especially love the wild smoked salmon with shaved radishes, lemon cream and wasabi peas ($11); the fresh tomato and pasilla chile pizza with manchego ($11); and the sashimi tuna salad with avocado, cucumber, tomato, edamame and ginger ($14).

Drink to die for: You can’t go wrong with a bottle of wine here since each one is chosen based on the wineries’ commitment to organic, biodynamic and sustainable harvesting. We also love the house-made natural juice drinks, like the Cucumber Refresher made with cucumbers and honey lemonade, and the fizzy sodas, like the Mexican Buddha, a sweet concoction of hibiscus tea, yuzu juice and soda water.

Secret of the house: True Food claims to be the only restaurant in the nation to provide Olivello Juice, an extract from sea buckthorn berries that packs a powerful punch of natural antioxidants and other protective phytonutrients. This super ingredient shows up in some of the menu’s elixirs, such as the Medicine Man.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday through Saturday

Happy hour/specials: No, but look for educational courses on health and wellness hosted at the restaurant throughout the year.

Takes reservations: No, but a private dining room can be reserved for 10 or less.


Photo by Richard Maack

Citrus-brined fried chicken with white cheddar waffles and braised greens
23.
Tuck Shop
2245 N. 12th St., Phoenix
602-354-2980
tuckinphx.com

Cuisine: Contemporary American

Price: $-$$$

Atmosphere: Most converted-house restaurants consist of a warren of tiny rooms, but open the chile-colored door of this pistachio-painted home and you’ll enter a single, airy space. The effect is immediately soothing, enhanced by mellow music and the sight of the couch in the “reading room” nook in the corner. From that cozy perch, you can sip a glass of wine and admire how the subtle modern art blends seamlessly with the retro décor and the vaguely Swedish wood paneling that climbs up two walls and across the ceiling. Add a sleek, minimalist bar, and you have your new neighborhood hangout (even if this isn’t your neighborhood).

Outdoor seating: No

Key Players: Architect-turned-restaurateur DJ Fernandes

Why we love it: Almost everyone who enters Tuck Shop wants to move in. One woman was apparently upset that she had only seen the place after renovating her loft, because she would have carbon-copied the design. The low decibels and high cozy-hip factor make it ideal for catching up with friends, and the inventive, shareable food further enhances conversation. We were skeptical of the menu concept – international comfort food tapas and larger “sharing plates” with a Southern bent, sort of. But we were happily won over by the clever execution and the surprisingly deft use of spices.

Must-try menu items: The Medjool dates stuffed with local Schreiner’s chorizo and melted Gruyère ($9) are calorie bombs, but are they worth it? Oh, yes. The spiciness of the sausage perfectly cuts through the dates’ sweetness, and the stellar arugula salad underneath is a memorable garnish. Panko walnut-crusted Fontina cheese sticks ($6) – a far cry from the stringy, boring mozzarella usual – pose a tasty dilemma: Which dipping sauce is better, cinnamony pear or smoky red pepper? Ultra-creamy New York Times mac and cheese ($9) gets sophisticated with prosciutto and herbed breadcrumbs. And the crostini duo ($9) features a delicious, imaginative pairing: tarragon-and-pink-peppercorn-flecked cucumber ribbons atop rye slices smeared with fennel cream cheese; and rosemary-balsamic roasted grapes on brie and multigrain bread.

Drink to die for: The unique gin and tonic owes its ginger color and pleasant bitterness to the bark-based quinine in the house-made tonic. The lemonade, ginger ale and sours are also homemade.

Secret of the house: Owner DJ Fernandes called his restaurant Tuck Shop (the term for a mom-and-pop convenience store in England, Australia and South Africa) because it was the name of his New England boarding school cafeteria. Once a month, the owner hosts a four-course prix fixe Sunday supper ($35 plus $14 for wine pairings); reservations only.

Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday

Happy hour/specials: All day Tuesday through Thursday a select wine is $5 a glass or $20 a bottle.

Takes reservations: Yes, for parties of six or more
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