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Food Reviews

2009 Best New Restaurants

Author: Ashlea Deahl, Adam Klawonn & Keridwen Cornelius
Issue: October, 2009, Page 86
Photo by Richard Maack

Posh’s blood orange and avocado salad with bitter chocolate and watercress
From tasty tacos Downtown to succulent sushi in Scottsdale and fabulous French fare on the far west side, we’re serving up 23 of the best new additions to the Valley’s dining scene. Hope you’ve come hungry...

Price Key:
Most entrées:
$ = under $10
$$ = $11-$15
$$$ = $16-$25
$$$$ = $26 and more











Photo by Richard Maack

Carne asada burrito


1. America’s Taco Shop

2041 N. Seventh St., Phoenix
602-682-5627, Americastacoshop.net

Cuisine: Mexican

Price
: $

Atmosphere
: This unassuming, pocket-sized site is filled with character. The red and yellow building is a historic 1920s-era bungalow that sits among a burgeoning row of independent restaurants. Wooden chairs and hardwood floors make it homey, large windows let in natural light, and art and chalkboards add color.

Outdoor seating
: Yes

Key players
: Terry Bortin and America Corrales Bortin

Why we love it
: The vibe, the beef, the prices and the backstory. The concept came up during Mexican food meals at America’s place during the couple’s courtship. She was a first-grade teacher who picked up cooking skills from her mom while growing up in Culiacán, a Mexican city two hours north of Mazatlán. He graduated from North High, which is right around the corner from the restaurant, and worked in the restaurant industry. The result is a simple yet brilliant version of Mexican food that emphasizes citrus-seared beef.

Must-try menu items
: carne asada burrito ($5.45); ceviche ($5.95); flan ($3.50)

Drink to die for
: We like to wash down all that spicy meat with a Jamaica margarita, made with agave nectar, dried hibiscus flower and Three Amigos tequila from the West Valley ($4.50). Or try the iced horchata coffee, which blends homemade rice horchata with locally roasted Matador Coffee ($3.50 for 32 ounces).

Secret of the house
: Everything is built around carne asada, which is choice grade, cut in-house and marinated to perfection for exactly 10 minutes.

Hours
: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Thursday; 8 a.m. to
10 p.m., Friday and Saturday; 10 am. to 9 p.m., Sunday

Happy hour/specials
: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Friday ($4 margaritas, $2 Mexican beers)

akes reservations
: No


Photo by Richard Maack

Cabernet burger
2. Amuse Bouche
17058 W. Bell Road, Surprise
623-322-8881,
amusebouche.biz

Cuisine
: French/International

Price
: $$-$$$

Atmosphere
: It’s exactly what you’d expect – and want – from a modern French bistro: casual, cute and cozy. Perfect for a lunch date, intimate dinner or simple Sunday breakfast, it’s the kind of place you’ll gladly make a habit of visiting.

Outdoor seating
: Yes, but it’s limited and you can’t drink alcohol outside.

Key players
: Husband and wife chef/owners Snir and Kierstin Mor, who met at culinary school in Paris and ditched their day jobs to follow their true passion: food.

Why we love it
: What started out as strictly a catering and take-out business quickly blossomed into a full-on, three-meals-a-day menu for one simple reason: amazing food. From the rich eggs Benedict at breakfast to the light goat cheese salad at lunch and the belly-warming meatloaf for dinner, the Mors know how to spruce up simple food with splendid flavors. We also love that they set up shop in Surprise; it’s not exactly the culinary capital of Arizona, but they’ve quickly put it on the map with their superb dishes.

Must-try menu items
: If we could spend an entire day eating at Amuse (and trust us, we could), we would start with a plate of fluffy beignets, New Orleans style ($6), followed by the aforementioned eggs Benedict ($12), which oozes with creamy, dreamy (but not too heavy) Hollandaise. For lunch we crave the cabernet burger, a half-pound patty infused with cabernet wine and topped with Swiss cheese, crispy bacon and caramelized onions ($11.95). And if it’s the soup du jour, we’ll take a bowl of the French onion topped with creamy Gruyère and Emmentaler. Dinner begs for the beef tenderloin with creamy potato purée and carrot butter sauce ($24); or the just-like-mom-makes-it meatloaf ($15). Knowing that the Mor duo is Paris-trained, we of course can’t skip dessert, so we’ll splurge for the chocolate pot de crème, served with vanilla whipped cream ($6) or that heavenly blueberry bread pudding topped with homemade caramel sauce ($6).

Drink to die for
: Amuse is one of a handful of BYOBs in Arizona, so pick your poison, bring your favorite stemware if you’d like, and drink up.

Secret of the house
: Call for the special of the day; it’s often the best thing on the menu. Oh, and nothing is ever frozen, except perhaps the ice cream, so everything on the menu is unfailingly fresh.

Hours
: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday; 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday; 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., Sunday 

Happy hour/specials
: Take-out orders and catering are available.

Takes Reservations
: Yes, by phone and for dinner only


Photo by David Moore

Avalon
3. Avalon
7707 E. McDowell Road, Scottsdale
480-656-0010, avalon-scottsdale.com

Cuisine: Contemporary American

Price
: $$$-$$$$

Atmosphere
: Awash in tones of cornflower blue and chocolate brown, Avalon gives off a classy, cool vibe without feeling stuffy. Ornate touches like an ivory beaded table separator, twisty decorative branches and changing orbs of colored light on one wall give the place a funky ’60s vibe without the kitsch. Dim lighting makes it the perfect intimate dining spot – if only you can ignore the lackluster hotel parking lot outside.

Outdoor seating
: Yes

Key Players
: Executive Chef Travis Watson, General Manager Domenic Lombardo, managing partner Ryan S. Leslie, and Chef d’Cuisine Charles Stotts

Why we love it:
Perhaps the most underrated restaurant in the Valley, Avalon defies its dowdy McDowell location with an impressive ambience and – here’s the key – unbelievably tasty food. Throw in a champagne Sunday brunch, live music and monthly chef demonstrations, and we wonder what’s taking everyone so long to fall in love with this place.

Must-try menu items
: Some dishes will change as of October 1, but the fresh, seasonal ingredients with explosive flavors will still dominate the menu. We crave the organic fresh vegetable salad with baby spinach, English peas, corn and Blue Hills Farms goat cheese ($9); the polenta-stuffed jumbo prawns ($12); the pan-roasted Alaskan halibut with carrot ginger purée ($26); and the butter-poached Maine lobster with ricotta gnocchi and tomato confit ($29). Then there are the drool-inducing desserts (all $8). Lombardo says the rich Chocolate Decadence is their No. 1 seller, but we’ll put our money – and our mouths ­– on the roasted banana bread pudding, with walnut toffee, banana gelato and salty caramel, any time.

Drink to die for
: Any one of the martinis, mojitos or specialty cocktails is enough to make our mouths pucker with pleasure, but Lombardo recommends the Viceroy ($10) – his own concoction of fresh muddled cucumber and rosemary, mixed with passion fruit vodka, lemon juice and soda.

Secret of the house
: The only thing Avalon doesn’t make in-house is the bread (even though it is made only for the restaurant, no one else) and the gelato. Otherwise, everything, down to that savory-sweet cranberry-herb butter that sometimes comes with the bread, is made by the chefs. Dietary restrictions? No worries – the chef will still whip up something divine.

Hours
: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Sunday; brunch 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., Saturday and Sunday

Happy hour
: 3 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily, featuring a small plate menu and discounts on drinks; live music Wednesdays and Sundays during brunch; demonstrations and pairing classes with the chef during the third week of every month; champagne brunch Sundays

Takes reservations
: Yes, by phone or online


Photo by David Moore

Slow-braised chicken mole and vegetable arroz with calabacitas and pumpkin seeds
4. Blanco Tacos + Tequila
6166 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale (The Borgata)
480-305-6692, foxrc.com

Cuisine: California-Mexican

Price
: $$

Atmosphere
: Perfect for a post-work happy hour or weekend lunch with friends, Blanco brims with a casual spunk. A color palette of bright blue and coffee brown meets a minimalist décor of weathered wood floors, dark wood tabletops and a long, inviting centerpiece bar. When the weather’s nice, stake out a spot on the spacious patio.

Outdoor seating
: Yes

Key Players
: Executive Chef Christopher Cristiano was mainly responsible for the menu, Beverage Director Regan Jasper developed the wine list, and Sam Fox created the overall design. That’s Fox, as in Fox Restaurant Concepts, as in the man with the Midas touch for successful local restaurants such as Bloom, North, Sauce, Olive & Ivy, True Food, etc.

Why we love it
: For the same reason we love all Fox restaurants: It’s fun and casual, perfect for people watching, and the food is solidly delicious. It may not be the most authentic Mexican food in town, but what it does (tacos and tequila, duh) it does exceptionally well, and we could stuff our faces with that creamy guac all day long.

Must-try menu items
: guacamole “Blanco Style,” made with avocado, roasted chile, cotija cheese and sea salt ($9); carne asada tacos with grilled steak, cotija cheese and lime ($12); salmon a la parrilla with chayote squash, roasted corn, spinach and chile verde ($18)

Drink to die for
: We prefer the pomegranate-grapefruit margarita ($9) or the cucumber-kumquat fresca made with El Tesoro Silver, triple sec and fresh mint ($10). The Blanco sangria, made with white wine, peaches, pears and lychee, also hits the spot on a sweltering day ($8/glass, $20 bottle). But don’t forget the restaurant’s namesake: There are dozens of options for blanco, resposado, añejo, ultra and mezcal tequilas.

Secret of the house
: Even though those cheesy enchiladas taste like they’re laden with lard, the secret here is that Blanco has cut out the fat. “We don’t use traditional lard or heavy cheeses in our cooking,” Blanco spokeswoman Debbie Porter says. “Our menu features fresh, seasonal ingredients. The result is still flavorful and satisfying but not as heavy.”

Hours
: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday

Happy hour/specials
: Get half-off cheese crisps, starters, house margaritas, well drinks and draft beers from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Thursday.

Takes reservations
: Yes, by phone or online


Photo by David Moore

Gruyère-studded popovers
5. BLT Steak at Camelback Inn
5402 E. Lincoln Drive, Scottsdale (Camelback Inn)
480-905-7979, bltscottsdale.com

Cuisine: Steakhouse/French bistro

Price
: $$$-$$$$

Atmosphere
: Don’t expect the typical testosterone-inspired steakhouse. BLT (named after its founding chef, Laurent Tourondel) has adopted a lighter, more modern atmosphere as part of Camelback Inn’s recent $50 million-dollar renovation. Think white linens, cushy throw pillows, oversized lamps dangling overhead, amber-colored wooden tables, and quaint French doors leading out to the patio. And the best accessory, of course, is the unparalleled view of Camelback Mountain.

Outdoor seating
: Yes, with a fire pit

Key Players
: BLT is the brainchild of world-renowned, French-trained chef Laurent Tourondel, whom Bon Appétit magazine named the 2007 Restaurateur of the Year. Tourondel launched his bistro concept in the Big Apple in 2004 to rave reviews. General Manager Kristin Addis and Executive Chef Marc Hennessy run the Scottsdale ship.

Why we love it
: The look of BLT alone has us swooning, with special props going to the old-school blackboard sprawling across the length of one wall to advertise daily specials. But let’s be real – we’re here to devour some serious cuts of meat, like USDA Prime, Certified Black Angus, American Wagyu and Japanese Kobe beef. There’s also top-notch lamb, chicken and seafood to seduce us, and the heaping helpings of buttery, cheesy, carb-laden sides, like the seven different preparations of potatoes. We also appreciate the freebie nibbles that could fill us up if we’re not careful, especially those mammoth, mouth-watering Gruyère-studded popovers.

Must-try menu items
: Steak lovers, tuck in to the BLT cut bone-in strip loin for two ($82). Seafood lovers will fall for the sautéed Dover sole ($50). And sweet teeth, beware the peanut butter chocolate mousse with banana ice cream ($10).

Drink to die for
: Along with its extensive wine list and four quality drought beers, including a special Four Peaks BLT Pale Ale, there’s only one drink here that you may actually die for – or from: the Cowboy Killer, which mixes Maker’s Mark, sweet vermouth, Grand Marnier-soaked cherries and Peychaud’s bitters ($12). We’re also fans of the Thyme in the Desert – a fruity, fizzy blend of Ketel One Citroen, muddled raspberries, lemon thyme and soda ($12).

Secret of the house
: Taking the “farm-to-table” concept to heart, the restaurant picks many of its ingredients straight from its on-site organic garden. And if you find yourself licking every juicy drop of steak sauce from the plate, get a hold of yourself: You can take home a bottle of BLT steak or barbecue sauce ($9 each).

Hours
: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday

Happy hour/specials
: Look for seasonal bar menus and steak prix fixe menus throughout the year.

Takes reservations
: Yes, by phone or online


Photo by David Moore

Pulled pork sandwich with potato salad
6. Bryan’s Black Mountain BBQ
6130 E. Cave Creek Road,
Ste. 2, Cave Creek
480-575-7155, bryansbbq.com

Cuisine: Barbecue

Price: $-$$

Atmosphere: The cowboy chic décor features a pipe rail around the dining area, with old Western movies flickering across the overhead TV screens. Blues tunes wash over the room in the background. Resist the urge to kick yer feet up.

Outdoor seating: Yes

Key players: Chef/owners Donna and Bryan Dooley

Why we love it: Low-key delivery of well-priced, lip-smacking barbecue. Dry-spiced pork spare ribs ($13.95 for half-slab, $17.95 for full-slab) and a totally tender beef brisket ($11.95) win this food showdown. All of the barbecue is available for takeout by the pound, and every piece is lovingly cooked by Bryan Dooley himself. He has also amassed a nice selection of bottled craft brews – such as Oregon’s Deschutes Brewery and Delaware’s Dogfish Head – and hosts occasional tasting events to highlight them. The heated barbecue sauce dispensers also are a nice touch.

Must-try menu items: rib and meat combo ($12.95); vegetarian “pulled” squash sandwich ($6.50); olive coleslaw ($1.50); chocolate-chip ice cream cookie ($3.50)

Drink to die for: Sioux City sarsaparilla float ($3.50)

Secrets of the house: While most barbecue houses focus on the sauce, Dooley says he focuses on quality meats and his secret rubs (a combination that he calls the “keys to the kingdom”). Also, Dooley’s friends contributed hand-painted signs inside the restaurant as well as the large rack of antlers hanging on the far wall.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday

Happy hour/specials: No

Takes reservations: No


Photo by Andrea Smith

A trio of dips, clockwise from top: golden hummus, black bean hummus and nutty “rawvocado,” served with chipotle lavash and veggies
7. Chakra 4 Café and Apothecary
4773 N. 20th St., Phoenix
(Town & Country Shopping Center)
602-283-1210, chakra4herbs.com

Cuisine: Vegetarian/Vegan

Price: $-$$

Atmosphere: Some say hippy, we say happy. The servers at this laidback café seem eternally pleasant and eager to please. Soothing music melts away stress, and with hundreds of herbs, teas and medicinal blends lining the shelves of the adjoining shop, there’s plenty to pique your interest here. Dainty wooden tables with bright colors make you feel as if you’re picnicking in a meadow full of marigolds.

Outdoor seating: No, but outside tables are available throughout the Town & Country shopping center.

Key Players: Herbalist Kita Centella owns the café and the adjoining apothecary, while Chef John Heckel runs the kitchen. Heckel baked for AJ’s Fine Foods and ran his own vegetarian catering company, but this is his first solo restaurant gig.

Why we love it: What’s not to love about this holistic hole in the wall? Centella says 98 percent of their ingredients are organic and as local as possible, and it shows. Every salad, soup, sandwich and dessert tastes so fresh, clean and flavorful you can practically feel yourself getting healthier with every bite. Cookies and biscottis are locally made; only organic extra-virgin, unfiltered, cold-pressed olive oil goes into the food; Simply Bread supplies the warm, chewy slices that accompany most plates; all items can be made vegan; and we could study the extensive tea list for hours.

Must-try menu items: Centella’s fave is the Mediterranean Rhapsody, a lively mix of massaged kale, tomato, olives, feta, red onion and raw cashew “cream cheese” all wrapped up in a sun-dried tomato tortilla ($13). We’ll second that recommendation, but we also can’t get enough of the kale on its own, whether it’s in the Kaleidoscope or Massage salad ($14, $11), two flavor-packed renditions of the leafy green super food. Also, don’t miss the belly-warming Moroccan Nomad Stew ($11), and for dessert, nibble on an addictive truffle ($2.50 each), locally produced by Calio Confections. Our favorite flavor combos include ginger-lemongrass, basil-lime, blueberry-lavender and cardamom-mint.

Drink to die for: You can’t go wrong with Chakra’s wide variety of green, red, black and herbal teas, as well as several cleansing elixirs and tonics, but we’d die for their chai blends, which are made with a base of cinnamon, fennel, cardamom, coriander, ginger, orange peel, clove, star anise and white pepper. The blend gets simmered for five minutes and mixed with milk (dairy or non-dairy) and sweetener (honey or agave syrup). Centella recommends the Chocomaya Chai, which is made with dark bitter cocoa powder, cacao nibs and a hint of chipotle pepper.

Secret of the house: When Centella says they put heart into everything on the menu, she’s not kidding. Even the water tank for Chakra’s reverse osmosis system is emblazoned with uplifting words like “blessed water” and the symbol of the heart chakra.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., daily

Happy hour/specials: No, but watch for educational seminars at the café and shop throughout the month.

Takes reservations: Yes, by phone


Photo by David Moore

Hangover breakfast sandwich
8. Daily Dose
4020 N. Scottsdale Road,
Scottsdale
480-994-3673

Cuisine: American

Price: $$

Atmosphere: Hip and modern, this cozy streetside eatery offers simple tables and elevated booths in the cool interior while setting aside a few outdoor tables along a busy Old Town sidewalk. Exposed rafters and the long bar make the place seem cavernous, and the bright orange color scheme helps stimulate our hunger (no, really, it’s restaurant science).

Outdoor seating: Yes

Key players: Matt and JenLyn Long

Why we love it: The Longs have a long tradition of taking traditional dishes and adding surprising (and tasty) twists to them. Take the eggs Benedict, for example, which gets punched up with chorizo crumbles under the Hollandaise sauce and a side of “DD hash” that sports roasted acorn squash and mushrooms. Servers don’t hassle diners to leave – in fact, they can be downright open about encouraging you to stay. We also love the staff’s willingness to accommodate tired and hot passersby with off-menu requests: On one visit, we craved a good milkshake and found none on the menu, so staff offered to whip up something with coconut ice cream. Oh, and breakfast is served until 2 p.m.

Must-try menu items: eggs Benedict ($8.95); prime rib and crimini omelet ($10.95); Daily Dose burger ($10.95); the Hangover breakfast sandwich ($9.95); banana split pancakes ($9.95)

Drink to die for: You won’t need a second opinion about this: Order the Second Opinion, made with orange vodka, chai tea and peach nectar ($7.50, $5.50 during happy hour)
Secret of the house: There is no microwave in the kitchen.

Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday through Wednesday; 7 a.m. to midnight, Thursday through Saturday

Happy hour/specials: 4 p.m. to 8 p.m., daily

Takes reservations: Yes, for parties of eight or more for breakfast or lunch



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