At first glance, Vogue is nearly a parody of French restaurant clichés, with its raven-haired chef donning a stylish black cap and jacket, a glittering chandelier dangling above a sleek marble and leather bar and the quintessential butter-drenched escargot ($7) gracing the menu. The significance of the Vogue name isn’t subtle: A TV screen shows prancing models on a catwalk, and a list of a dozen martinis carry the names of fashion gods like Dior, Chanel, Prada and Versace. Side dishes are aptly labeled “accessories.”
Yet, happily, the experience isn’t stuffy, and the food isn’t at all frou-frou. Indeed, serious French-craving diners from all parts of the Valley would do well to hop on the freeway for this cooking.
Chef Aurore prefers lighter flavors, using more vinaigrettes than butter and cream, and keeps things bistro-casual with such dishes as the silky house-smoked salmon appetizer accented with crème fraiche and capers ($9). I love the punchy, julienne ginger amid the frito misto of calamari and carrot ($5), delicately tempura fried and served with saffron aioli. Foie gras ($12) is the most indulgent part of the meal, cured in Cognac and spread with sweet fig-apple compote on brioche toast.
The entrée list is friendly and well-executed. Kudos to the Steak Vogue ($15) – an onglet (hanger) cut prepared medium rare – for being suitably chewy and deeply flavorful under brandied peppercorn sauce, served with a side of crisp fries. I’m also smitten by Vogue’s nod to American fare with a twist: Mac and cheese ($3) gets sassy with smoky truffles and salty pancetta.
But chef Aurore really shines with her specials, generally offering two or three fancier choices each night. Hers is one of the best beef Wellingtons ($24) I’ve enjoyed, the rose-pink tenderloin baked in crackly-crusted puff pastry and juicy with wild mushrooms, foie gras and scalloped mousse.
If there are any missteps in Vogue’s runway walk, they’re found in the desserts. Not that there’s anything wrong with the lovely crème brûlée ($5), pineapple tatin ($5) or housemade truffles ($5). It’s just that, with her skills, the chef must have some spectacular confectionary tricks she’s not yet sharing.

Details
Vogue Bistro
Cuisine: French
Address: 15411 W. Waddell Road (Marley Park Plaza), Surprise
Phone: 623-544-9109
Website: voguebistro.com
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight, Tuesday through Saturday
Recommendations: Foie gras cured in Cognac and spread with sweet fig-apple compote on brioche toast; Steak Vogue, hanger-cut, prepared medium rare, with brandied peppercorn sauce; beef Wellington baked in puff pastry, with wild mushrooms, foie gras and scalloped mousse.