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Food Reviews

Humble Pie

Author: Nikki Buchanan
Issue: June, 2008, Page 193




A few of the combos need tweaking. Shrimp with burrata, basil and lemon zest ($10), and wild mushrooms with pancetta, red onion and mozzarella ($12) both sound promising but lack depth of flavor, while the organic vegetable pizza is flat-out boring ($10). Garlic and a little salt would do wonders here.
Of course, you don’t have to eat pizza to be happy at Humble. A fine meal can be made of starters and salads. Chilled green beans tossed in tangy, whole-grain mustard aioli and sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts, make virtue its own reward ($7), while tender loops of fried calamari are as habit-forming as potato chips, thanks to a thin, sweet dipping sauce of fresh basil and serrano chiles ($9). Crispy fries strewn with parsley, garlic, lemon zest and Pecorino ($6.95), make another compelling argument for carb-loading (as if I needed one). I adore them.
Humble’s take on the Caprese (also inspired by Mozza) involves a shimmering mound of pure white burrata (mozzarella with a creamy center), ladled with deep green house-made pesto and sided with crunchy, toasted bread and roasted, on-the-vine cherry tomatoes ($9). It’s yummy. Now, if only I could figure out how to eat those sweet but explosive tomatoes politely!
Salads, which may be ordered in small or entrée sizes, are just as appealing. I know I’ll be ordering both the crisp, perfectly dressed Caesar and the herb vinaigrette-dressed veggie chopped salad again (both $6/$9). Who can resist the zesty dressing and sourdough croutons on the former, or the combination of greens, avocado, jicama, white beans, tomatoes and mozzarella on the latter? Meanwhile, Bob McClendon’s naturally sweet veggies need (and get) little adornment here. Melting cubes of butternut squash with basil and caramelized baby carrots with cilantro are simple and simply excellent (both $6).


The dessert menu offers just three selections: an apple crostada, enfolded in a tender, buttery crust and served with vanilla ice cream ($7); and two gelatos – one chocolate, one olive oil – both prepared by Berto’s ($6). The chocolate gelato is delish, but do yourself a favor and order the “weird” one ($6). Infused with grassy Queen Creek olive oil, strewn with sugared lemon zest and served with tiny biscotti, it’s a creamy, subtle seduction you won’t soon forget.
Humble Pie is destined for success, and I predict I’ll never have to eat humble pie for saying it.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday.


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