Photo by Christ Bassett An egg-white omelet with asparagus and potatoes.

Traditional breakfast eaters won’t go away hungry either. My favorite entrée is probably the three eggs with steak, caramelized onions and chilies, served with hash browns, country potatoes or tater tots ($9). Marinated sirloin steak has been cut up in little pieces and browned with onions and chilies, then ladled over the eggs. The meat’s tender, the dish is wonderfully spicy, and the only thing lacking is toast to mop up the delicious remains.

All the breads (wheat, brioche and sourdough) are baked by MJ, so, of course, they’re wonderful, offering light, almost cake-like texture and good, chewy crust. Most of the time, I can easily forgo toast, but not this toast. And when it’s smeared with creamy house-made apple butter that looks more like butter than brown applesauce? Mmmmm. Completely irresistible. May plans to change the spreads throughout the year, offering Clementine marmalade, strawberry preserves and plum jam as the seasons change. I think Pollan would approve; I know I do.

MJ’s toasted brioche forms the base for the Over Easy ($9), stacked with spinach, fried egg and “bacon sauce” (tiny squares of bacon with a bit of butter and green onion). Stylish presentation can’t obscure the fact that this is comfort food, plain and simple. It’s another personal favorite, but then so is the ham steak with redeye gravy and potatoes ($9). Most restaurants operating this side of the Mississippi don’t have a clue what redeye gravy should be, but May’s is as sweet and syrupy as Scarlett O’Hara with Ashley Wilkes. But why on earth doesn’t this entrée come with grits or biscuits to express its Southern roots? At the very least, it needs an egg.

Tender chicken-fried steak, dredged in flour and fried like chicken, does come with an egg (yay!) and tasteless country gravy (boo!), the only weakness I’ve found in the whole place. And while I’m nattering, both of these dishes require bigger plates. Everything’s all crowded together.

The Wolf Pack – a sandwich of hash browns filled with bacon, eggs and cheese – has “guy food” written all over it ($8), while seared Scottish salmon, accompanied by asparagus and hollandaise, sits on the other end of spectrum, great for the girl who’s pretending to diet.

Fresh-squeezed juices, eager-to-please servers and a kid’s menu featuring Reese’s Pieces pancakes – what’s not to love? Oh, I’m not waffling on this one: Over Easy is egg-zactly what I want in a breakfast restaurant, and I’m not alone. It’s already the toast of the town.

Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., daily.