8801 N. Central Ave., Ste. 104, Phoenix
602-687-8466

Housed in an old fire station in Sunnyslope, Bomberos (“firemen” in Spanish) invites comparison to Postino (“postman” in Italian), which turned Arcadia’s former post office into a wine-fueled mob scene seven years ago. Like its Italian-accented counterpart, South American-inspired Bomberos aims to be a neighborhood hangout, sporting similarly designed doors that slide up and open to let in whatever needs letting in – government vehicles or, in this case, good weather.

So I’m predicting that come April, this sparely designed but intimate space, aglow with votive candles, will be just as packed and noisy as Postino, although I really hope not.

Oh, I have nothing against Uruguayan-born Oscar Mastrantuono or his wife Kristi (who, as owners, probably dream of just such outrageous success), but I’d hate to see the black leather couches and wine crate-coffee tables that make the loft-like room so striking 86’d for the sake of squeezing in more customers. It could happen. It did happen at Postino.

For now, at least, the place is perfect – busy but not too busy, quiet but not too quiet. Then again, I haven’t shown up on a Saturday night when there’s live music by Caji. I also haven’t sat out on the enchanting patio, shaded by mesquite trees, its fire pit ringed with cushy sofas and chairs. But I have visions of lolling around out there in the middle of the afternoon with a book and a glass of wine. Unlike almost-postal Postino, Bomberos is relaxing.

As you might imagine, the 25-bottle wine list features South American wines exclusively, offering Brazilian Merlots, Argentine Malbecs and a handful of more obscure varietals. Most come by the glass or bottle and range between $6 and $15 per glass. The tannin-heavy Martino Old Vine Malbec didn’t do it for me, especially at $15 a pop. And I’m probably a Philistine for preferring 2 Brothers Big Tattoo, a Chilean Cab/Syrah blend that was fruity and uncomplicated ($8). Bomberos also offers a half-dozen South American beers and terrific coffee, courtesy of Illy. After two creamy lattes (the best I’ve ever had) one Saturday afternoon, I went home and cleaned my house in turbo-drive.

Bomberos sells Willo-baked scones and muffins in the morning and a half-dozen types of panini with chips and pickles at lunch. Evening selections are limited to three menu items: an artisanal cheese plate (three cheese choices for $16), a specialty meat platter of Spanish chorizo, prosciutto and salami ($14) and bruschetta (three choices for $10). One or two panini are generally available too. Aside from Manchego and Iberico cheeses, marinated tuna bruschetta and Spanish chorizo (all of which allude to Latin America), the offerings are straight out of Wine Bar 101, accompanied by dried fruit, nuts, roasted peppers, olives, sesame crackers and thickly sliced baguette. Everything is tasty (I especially like the sugary edge to the bruschetta with Brie and apples), but nothing is remarkable. In other words, the food doesn’t compare to Postino, where the bruschetta is damned near legendary.

And by the way, you don’t want to do what I did, ordering all three selections at once to make a meal. Otherwise, you’ll be looking at a hefty little tab for what amounts to a bunch of snacks.

But after all the comparisons have been made and the food analyzed to death, it all comes down to this: Do I like Bomberos, and do I want to go back? Yes and yes. It’s a neighborhood gem in the making.

Hours: 7 a.m. to midnight, Monday through Thursday; 7 a.m. to 1 a.m., Friday and Saturday; 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday.