In any case, there’s ample illumination to behold the fire-engine-red, mosaic tiled wood-burning oven that sits in the middle of this modern, slightly noisy space, churning out traditional, plate-size Neapolitan-style pizzas. The 17 pizzas, ranging from $9 to $16, are terrific, with puffy crusts holding enough salt to give them flavor and texture, and thin centers (wet on the red-sauced pizzas and moist enough on the white pizzas). LAMP uses top-notch ingredients, including a combination of fresh mozzarella, pecorino and parmigiano-reggiano, with a final drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
When I asked for a box to take leftover slices home, my server said, “They don’t travel well,” but I had no problem downing the Margherita topped with slenderly sliced pepperoni ($14) for breakfast the next morning. On my next visit, there were no leftovers from the red-sauced L.P. (Lindsay’s namesake), topped with capers, Sicilian black olives and plump, white anchovies ($15), or the white rapini, with toasted pine nuts, garlic, ricotta, chile flakes and singed broccoli rabe ($15).
Starters and salads are well-crafted, too. For example, the moist, dense mignulata ($6) – a regional version of scacciata, the homey Sicilian bread stuffed with cauliflower, sausage and pecorino – is practically a meal in itself. And the lusty, warm, Sambuca-drenched figs draped over goat cheese-smeared bruschetta ($9) are sweet, crunchy and utterly delicious.
The grape and Gorgonzola salad ($9) is a fine example of sweet and salty, and the arugula and white bean salad ($9) is pitch-perfect, dressed with just enough tangy red wine vinaigrette and finished with shaved parmigiano-reggiano.
Don’t fill up on the savory delights, because LAMP’s handful of milkshakes ($6) – including a dreamy Nutella, topped with a toasted marshmallow – are worth the trip alone.
You can add LAMP to the list of local pie places worth seeking out. Just plan on devouring it there.
LAMP Wood Oven Pizzeria
Address: 8900 E. Pinnacle Peak Rd., Scottsdale
Hours: 4:30-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday; 4:30-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Closed Mondays. Open for lunch beginning in late February/early March.
Highlights: Mignulata ($6), fig-Sambuca bruschetta ($9), arugula and white bean salad ($9), The L.P. pizza ($15), Nutella milkshake ($6).
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