Friday, September 19, 2014

three bitesBlog

 

Battered Up!

From pickles to buffalo to jalapeños, Valley chefs will chicken-fry just about anything

TexAZ Grill
6003 N. 16th St., Phoenix
602-248-7827, texazgrill.com

The marquee sign on the side of the building says it loud and clear: “Over 812,890 Chicken Fried Steaks Served!” (By the time you read this, that number will have jumped by perhaps a thousand.) If there were a local hall of fame for the dish, this Valley favorite would win, forks down. Since 1985, the steakhouse has packed fans into its small, scrappy dining area lined with Texas paraphernalia on every inch of the walls and ceiling. Some come for the Texas beers, some for the friendly banter of the longtime servers and bartenders, some to see their friends – other regulars – dining at neighboring booths. But all come for the masterpiece chicken-fried steak. As owner Steve Freidkin notes, “There are certain things we wouldn’t divulge for love or money,” and that means the recipe for the house specialty of a choice of tenderized beef steak, boneless chicken breast or boneless pork loin chop, double dipped, fried, and swimming in cream gravy. You can get this belly-buster served as two monster pieces of meat with mashed potatoes and gravy, corn, a buttermilk biscuit and a salad, or for Sunday brunch with sunny side eggs and Creole potatoes.

 

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The Beet Goes On

A natural aphrodisiac, beets add Valentine’s ooh-la-la to traditional and unexpected recipes.

Quiessence
6106 S. 32nd St., Phoenix
602-276-0601,
quiessencerestaurant.com

 

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Verde, Verde Good

When the weather’s chilly, seek the smoky, spicy heat of chile verde.

St. Francis
111 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix
602-200-8111, stfrancisaz.com

With its brick walls, soaring rafters and roll-up garage doors, Chef-owner Aaron Chamberlin’s revamped 1955-style restaurant typifies modernist urban chic. But his secret weapon is pure old-school: A custom-built, brick-framed oven that uses mesquite wood for smokiness and almond wood for heat, adding a sizzling succulence to meat and vegetable dishes alike. Thanks to that wood oven, the pork in the chile verde emerges tooth-tender and deeply savory. The juicy stew is served bubbling hot in an iron skillet with hefty chunks of sweet cornbread alongside for dipping. The delight is in the details: Chamberlin finishes the chile-spiked dish with gooey Jack cheese, a squeeze of lime and a tuft of fresh cilantro. For an even more decadent dive into the ultimate comfort food, the kitchen will happily add two sunny-side up eggs as a yolky crown. Be sure to ask for more cornbread to mop up all that extra goodness.

 

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Keen on Tartine


These traditional French open-faced sandwiches are cheesy, veggie-topped knife-and-fork feasts.

Carmel’s
4225 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix
480-251-8888,
carmelsbreakfast.com

Set in a tiny 1940s Arcadia cottage, this upscale coffee shop packs a big punch, thanks to owner Pat Flanigan and his passion for gourmet coffee, delectable bakery delights, European-style salads, sandwiches and quiche. Credit is also due to his mother and inpiration, Carmel, as well as his grandmother, since both women contributed their favorite recipes to the menu.

 

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Pudding It Mildly

Old-fashioned bread pudding is enjoying a delicious revival all across the Valley. We found some creative, custardy twists
Fuego Bistro
713 E. Palo Verde Dr., Phoenix
602-277-1151, fuegobistro.com

We get hot for a cold horchata drink on a warm day, but sometimes our stomachs need a more substantial diversion. Thankfully, as fashioned by the clever cooks at Fuego, horchata – a traditional Mexican beverage made with rice, milk, vanilla, nuts and cinnamon – serves as the scrumptious lifeblood of the Latin American eatery’s signature bread pudding. The blend of breads – croissants, French bread and the baguette-like Mexican bolillo – are all infused with chocolate chips, cinnamon and that honeyed horchata, cobbled together in a thick, custardy slab.

 

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Ciao Down

taly itself might close for business in August, but around the Valley, you can nosh all afternoon on bargain bruschetta, well-priced pastas and buono vino. 

Amaro Pizzeria and Vino Lounge
28234 N. Tatum Blvd., Cave Creek
480-502-1920, amaroaz.com

From Cowboy Ciao/Kazimierz World Wine Bar alums Tagan Dering and Frank Vairo comes this swanky pizza/wine café. The mellow lounge beckons you to sink into a sofa and stay a while; the paintings evoke scenes of Vairo’s ancestral hometown of Carolei in southern Italy – “near the laces of the boot,” he says. At happy hour, all full-size antipasti are half-off, including wood-fired bruschetta ($3.50); tangerine-sized veal, beef and pork meatballs in tangy marinara ($5); mortadella focaccia ($5); crispy calamari ($5.50); and stupendous shrimp scampi smothered in chile/lemon/garlic butter ($6). Any pizza is $2 off, as well. Drinks include respectable house wines for $5, basic draft beers for $2.50 and well drinks for $3.50. 4-6 p.m. daily.

 

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One Fish, Two Fish

THREE BITES

Cien Agaves Tacos & Tequila

7228 E. First Ave., Scottsdale
480-970-9002, cienagaves.com

You gotta love a restaurant that boasts a full “taco stand.” OK, it’s not an actual stand but a signature section of the menu brimming with more than a dozen tasty tortilla bundles. The boisterous turquoise taquería feels like a day at the beach, and plenty of plates evoke that sunny feeling, too. Shrimp is always an excellent taco-filler choice, be it beer-battered and moistened with sweet-spicy island sauce, or sautéed in fiery guajillo chile sauce cooled a bit with rice. You don’t often see ono tacos around town, and here, they come Tecate beer-battered with Baja sauce and chunky mango salsa, or marinated in sweet tamarind and grilled with

 

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