Tuesday, December 23, 2014

three bitesBlog


Shiver Me Livers

PHM1214Flash-8-LiverOutlawed in California, decadent foie gras finds an enthusiastic welcome in Valley kitchens.

5532 N. Palo Cristi Rd., Paradise Valley, 602-955-7878, hermosainn.com/lons
Happily, foie gras prohibition is one California craze that hasn’t yet migrated east. Supremely rich and buttery, as if a filet mignon and a stick of butter had a baby, the fattened goose liver is a traditional favorite of upscale diners. Chefs can prepare the scandalous lobe in any number of ways, but frequently choose sweet and acidic accompaniments to counter the hauntingly rich fat. James Ducas, Executive Chef of the Southwestern-inspired Lon’s at the Hermosa Inn, is currently pairing a deeply seared slab of Hudson Valley foie gras with a savory cocoa-and-masa tamal, spiced with ancho chile and cumin (pictured, $18). A Mexican chocolate-tinged balsamic syrup reduction provides a balanced counterpoint. Ducas’ interpretation is all at once earthy, spicy, buttery, sweet and tangy – and plenty naughty.


Read more: Shiver Me Livers

Rolling in Green

PHM1114Flash-8-3BitesTake the fish out of the equation with these vegetarian sushi rolls.

Sushi Roku
7277 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale,
480-970-2121, sushiroku.com
It’s time for the swimmers to stop bogarting all the love. Sure, glistening ruby red bigeye tuna is ultra sexy, but haven’t you heard? Vegetables are in – and seductive in their own dirt-candy kind of way. Any sushi restaurant worth its sea salt offers a standard vegetable roll, but these three restaurants dig a little deeper. Take the Garden Roll ($11, pictured) at Sushi Roku. Executive chef Miles Newcomer starts with nori, the familiar edible seaweed, but not just any nori –  this version has been dried for three months for a deeper vegetal flavor. It’s basically the gold standard of seaweed. Even the rice is deluxe, flavored not with typical rice wine vinegar, but the reddish akazu vinegar, a byproduct of sake production. Fresh grated wasabi, blanched asparagus and peppery mizuna fill out the roll, which is served with a ginger soy dipping sauce and garnished with hand-cut spiraled cucumber and a tangle of fried potato strings.


Read more: Rolling in Green

Haute Dogs

PHM1014EB15Sniffing out the Valley’s most rarified wieners.

Boondocks Patio & Grill
4341 N. 75th St., Scottsdale, 480-949-8454, boondocksaz.com
Let’s get real: No way the humble hot dog will ever replace the beloved burger in the hearts of food lovers, but that doesn’t mean we aren’t always on the prowl for the perfect snap and bite of a quality wiener. The Valley is replete with routine hot dogs, so we tracked down a few rare breeds worth sniffing out. A good place to start is Boondocks Patio & Grill, a lively watering hole where the Boon-Dog ($8, pictured) rules. It could be the jumbo all-beef frank that makes this a top dog. Or it could be the shaved bolillo roll from a local Mexican baker that’s brushed with butter and griddled. Or maybe it’s the sweet and spicy pickled vegetables – cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, onions and garlic – tossed with a zippy cilantro-avocado aioli. Topped with a dusting of cotija, this two-fisted dog is worth the hunt.


Read more: Haute Dogs

Begin Again

gertrudesNew chefs = new menus at these storied Valley restaurants.

When the top toque leaves an established restaurant and another chef takes his or her place, it’s only a matter of time before the menu gets a makeover. Consider Gertrude’s at Desert Botanical Garden. Matt Taylor (pictured) inherited the stoves from outgoing Stephen Eldridge in February, but took a few months to survey the landscape. His new menu reflects native foliage (like prickly pears and chiles), but also hews to his personal journey as a cook. He pays homage to his Canadian roots with poutine ($18) and fries draped in gravy goosed up with foie gras, and flaunts a devilishly conspicuous Southern accent (Taylor cooked for celebrity chef John Besh of New Orleans) with iconic ingredients like grits, country ham and collard greens. These typically lowbrow staples get highbrow treatment from Taylor. Case in point: cornmeal-crusted oysters with collard green pistou (pesto) and Tabasco ranch dressing.


Read more: Begin Again

Cool Sippings

Chilly summer soups beat the heat.

St. Francis
111 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix 

Some call it summer, but Phoenicians call it "pain." Take action, Valley diner. Wage elemental warfare on triple-digit summer temps with a bowl of heat-relieving chilled soup. Popular in warm Latin climes – and also in the Far East, where Koreans sip on a chilled beef stock called mool naeng myun – these bracing broths translate nicely to the Southwest. A good place to start is with the French-inspired "chilled potato and leek soup" at St. Francis, or vichyssoise to you Francophiles. Chef Aaron Chamberlin puts a contemporary spin on the potage with garnishes of pickled seasonal vegetables, crisp-thin coins of fried fingerlings and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. ($6)


Read more: Cool Sippings

Gobble, Gobble

PHM 500x500 FPOLow-fat, high-flavor turkey burgers are worth the hunt.

11055 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, 480-348-2337, hopdoddy.com
When the mercury tips 110 degrees, a thick, coma-inducing burger might not be the best lunch idea. So how do you quell that gnawing burger craving? Simple: Order a turkey burger. Finding one that doesn’t taste like a cardboard puck isn’t easy, but bacon helps. So does starting with a free-range, hormone- and antibiotic-free bird. Hopdoddy’s Continental Club satisfies those prerequisites and more, adding basil pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and Parmesan, all mixed into the all-white meat. Topped with peppery arugula, applewood-smoked bacon and melted provolone on a soft, whole-wheat bun studded with oats and seeds, this is one fine burger to crow about. ($8.50)


Read more: Gobble, Gobble

Meat Cute

PHM0614Flash-1-8Head north, south… or stay put… for Arizona’s hottest restaurant trend: house-cured charcuterie plates.

Pig & Pickle
2922 N. Hayden Rd., Scottsdale, 480-990-1407
From the summer getaway haunts of the high country to the dining corridors of Tucson, charcuterie plates are trending in a big way in Arizona. But order wisely: Any hack can shave pink ribbons from a hunk of imported ham and call it a day. It takes passion, skill and patience to assemble a charcuterie plate from meats cured in-house. Pig & Pickle chef/owner Keenan Bosworth’s charc plate features an ever-shifting rainbow of rich, succulent meats, like andouille and traditional hunter’s sausage, along with specialty terrines like pork with a duck and fig inlay. Bosworth pairs his handcrafted meats with house-baked breads, bacon jam and house-pickled produce, each with its own brine, including baby red grapes with cinnamon and star anise. Here’s a tip: Bosworth likely has a stash of other cured meats – perhaps lardo, lonza or prosciutto – for use in other dishes that he’ll happily add to your plate if you ask. ($15)


Read more: Meat Cute