The environs at Tuscany are hotel deluxe but the food is unlike any conventional Italian restaurant in town. It's sprightly snacky and full of big carefully nuanced flavors. Among the small plates and pastas polenta with mushrooms lemon gnocchi with crabmeat and scallops enlivened with pancetta shine. Pizza is topped with primo ingredients and the flavor-packed bistecca is a bargain. Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Tu-Su.